Great Day to be British !

A well deserved nights sleep, in what turned out to be a lovely woodland setting, where I’d ended up in the early hours…no time for relaxing though, I still had a few hours drive to the days destination..however by shortly after 11 a.m., I had made it, to St Amond Montrand, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint-Amand-Montrond  in Central France , this is great I thought, as I parked in the shadow of some trees, alongside the canal, what a place to stay ! – not quite though, I found out at the tourist office, that the finish was a short distance away, and as I returned to Wally, to find some kids messing with my bikes…thought I’d drive there..which I did, going along the finishing straight (up to 500 mts away from the line ! ), and eventually finding my way to a parking field..a mown meadow, glorious perfumes from surrounding bushes,although not much shade, and again it was hot ! I’d brought my own shade with me though, and soon had the decorations out also !

I had a quick wander round the area, working out where to go, watching the British ex-rider and now commentator for ITV4 – Chris Boardman –doing his interview piece for TV, showing what a dangerous finishing 1km to go to the line  -entertaining watching him having to do many re-takes, as different people walked across the road,or stopped in front of him - I did offer to stop the traffic, although he didn’t accept !

Then along the finishing ‘kinks’ and to the finish line area and presentation stand, where I hoped to see Mark Cavendish later (and Chris Froome ), I was excited and ready for the finish (still 5hours away), bumping into a small British contingent near the finish, who gave me some useful info on the area… then it was back to Wally for lunch and cool in the shade, even so it was still hot and humid..

By mid afternoon I decided to go near where I was parked for a while,watching the cars go zooming by, including the Vittel water cannon ! ,then it was time to pack my things, drape the union jack over my shoulders, and head for the finish line area, just as the Publicity caravan was passing, including several cars from ‘York…Shire’ as the French commentator said !

I stood near to one of the giant TV screens, opposite the VIP stand, and within the last 50 mts of the finish, with a view of the line, it was as good as I could get…and the build up was electrifying…I was ready, and the crowd was – I’d like to say I got a picture of the sprinters…whoosh they were past, with Mark Cavendish sprinting superbly to win today's stage, I got a good view of him finishing, and as he threw his arms in the air…so did I ! Well worth the travel across, I knew he needed my support !

I did manage to see most of the  other riders going through, Cavendish’s team mates with arms aloft, and Chris Froome wearily going through, retaining the yellow jersey, albeit pegged back a little

Then it was time to get to the presentation area,packed already, how was I to see anything, then an opportunity beckoned-a wall at the back of the crowd, behind the TV camera platform, with a rail to hold onto, perfect for any climber, and I was soon up on it, well above the crowd, with a view straight across to the platform area…and then the view I’d come for…Mark Cavendish  arms aloft, as he was presented with the days prize, quickly followed by Chris Froome, still the race leader, and wearer of the Yellow Jersey, along with another of Cavendish’s team mates and others, before Cavendish was presented with the ‘Most Combative Rider of the Day’ prize  - a fitting finale

I had a wander round the area, trying to get into the press area and compound, didn’t quite manage it, watching French TV interviewers, and spotting one of my own villages ex-rider and now radio/TV commentator Rob Hayles- he didn’t have much to say,indicating it was too hot ! Then a final peramble,with Frenchman congratulating ME on Cavendish’s win –it was worth the trek ! More  pictures and slow wander back to Wally, as the clearing up had already begun…

I found myself a nice Aire, by a lake, just outside town, near to some shops,water and toilet waste disposal with the Bastille day celebration weekend to come…I think I’ll stay !  I didn’t quite sleep with my flag around me…almost , Good night ! 

In the Midnight Hour…

I was up bright and early at La Colmiane, having decided to go a cross to Puget Theniers, for another Via Feratta, which I’ve done and enjoyed before…

I was soon winding my way down the mountain roads, almost to the valley, until I turned towards the Var region, and drove alongside the river, which I’d been hoping I could have a dip in later…mucky black sludge !, the storms must have brought all the sediment down ! a quick stop at the supermarket for some fresh food, and onto the car park and gearing up for the Via Feratta… it was already hot, and getting hotter…by the second !, and I knew the climb went up a south facing rock wall, so expected a lot more heat as I climbed .. I got to the bottom of the cliff, and looked up into the shimmering heat.. just as I was about to set off, 3 other people arrived to climb it, although let me go up first …thanks

Up I went into the heat, and soon the sweat was running down my face, dripping across my sunglasses, and down onto the rocks beneath me, this was going to be fun ! I was soon towering above the ground, the route went straight up the wall, quickly gaining height, so I kept going ! soon looking down on the valley below, whilst my knees trembled and knocked ..up to the top of the first of the Aiguillettes, where there was the first Himalayan bridge to cross,up onto the middle Aiguillettes, across the ridge, and onto a further, single rope bridge – which I let the others cross first (to get some pics, honest !) and I followed, up and around the last tower, before attaching myself to the Tyrolean traverse,  and shooting across between the last towers, and an overhanging downclimb to finish me off !! Good fun, and nice to have someone around when I’m climbing.. I wandered back to the car park, looking up at the towers which I’d just climbed over,along and down..phew !

I had lunch, whilst pondering my next move… everything seemed down towards the south of France, and then I decided…I’d go across to St Amond Montrond..to watch the hopefullly sprint finish of tomorrows TdF stage, it was a fair way, but it would take me across to the middle of the country, from where I could go anywhere, and I deserved a ‘day off’ !

By mid afternoon I started on the long journey, I’d decided to do half today, and the rest tomorrow, but even half was a tortuous journey…up,across,down mountain passes, as I crossed the Alpes Maritime, skirting the main alps, and Switzerland,passing Grenoble around 6 p.m., where I filled up, and continued…it was getting tough, although I did have a break around 9-30 p.m., whilst it went ‘properly dark’ as I traversed Lyon, getting used to driving in the dark again,and with my headlight strength reduced…not easy, as I kept going hoping to get somewhere out of the way, where I could safely stop for the night…

I’d heard that Mark Cavendish had just been beaten in today’s race,and I realised it was good idea to go and lend my support…that did keep me going !

I did eventually find somewhere just after midnight, off the RN7 ( Route Napoleon) and parked in a forest clearing next to another van, and promptly fell asleep…what a day/evening/night !

Shock, Horror…I’ve had to Pay !

Well the threatened hailstorm didn’t arrive overnight,in fact as the night wore on, the sky became much clearer, with a great show of stars for me to gaze up at (from bed, I was tired !), and a good nights sleep up the mountain, with just birdsong to accompany me !

I was up bright and early, as there were thunderstorms forecast for the afternoon, so I wanted to get my climbing done before lunch…not early enough though, since my last visit here, they’ve opened a ‘Caisse’, where I had to pay 5.20$ to use the Via Ferrata, not bad considering it’s my 3rd visit here (and I’ve had overnight parking !)

By 9 a.m. I was off, kitted up and ready to do the Via Ferrata Baus de la Frema, lots of different sections, some harder than others, and some Very Hard – I didn’t intend doing those !

I had a cuckoo to accompany me, singing somewhere in the trees, as I climbed the path towards the start of the route,then there it was, staring at me…the hole into the unknown, …or terror !

I climbed up and through it, to see down below me in the valley, a Himalayan rope bridge, stretched between two towers , which I was to climb soon …making my way around to the foot of the first Aguille, I climbed the snaking route around it, and up to the top, and without stopping shot across the rope bridge (before I could frighten myself!)- it’s easy, once you’ve done it !

Then around to quite a tricky section, which I decided was too hard for me, with a lot of overhangs, and so I went to a differing section to its side, and climbed that instead, that was tricky enough, with what’s described as an ‘airy position’ – it means you’ve got a lot of distance beneath you !- I just didn’t look down, not until I’d got to the top …

then up and over another ‘airy’ ridge, towards the hardest part – La Balme, around the big cave (grotte) , I picked the easier route, which was up to the right of the cave, and over the top of it, what I’d forgotten was that there’s a ladder to climb, above the cave top, and which you have to climb facing outwards…

looking down into the valley, as you climb up backwards…leaning backwards,  and of course get your pack stuck as you come to the top of it,and the accompaniment of crashes of thunder just as I was getting to the top of it !- the storm must be arriving.. I got up to the top of this section, then saw a Pont de Singe rope bridge to climb across between rock sections, I had to do it, or I’d be frightened next time, soon skipped over it and up and over the last ridge, where, with the rain coming down, and the thunder crashing I decided to call it a day..and run down to the car park and Wally, for a welcome lunch…wash,cup of tea, and deciding what to do next…I’d done a good days climbing with a 540 mts height gain, and no injuries !- well a few cuts..that was on the way down !

The cash office had closed, and no one else had been on the route whilst I was there, although a couple were setting off as I arrived back at the car park at almost 1-30 p.m., and another couple set off later… so what to do now, or where to go ?

I decided to stay in the afternoon thunderstorms, and settled down for a read,accompanied by thunder and lightning…and later some great starry skies, brilliant – with the sky flashing (don’t know why ?) and shooting stars.. what more could I ask (Northern Lights ??)

Bonne Nuit

So Good…Jotown Did it Twice !

I was up early on Monday morning, for my final breakfast at Lynne’s, and a leisurely start for the drive back to France, so with great thanks to Lynne and Elizabeth for giving up her TV, for me to watch the TdF ‘live’, and I set off from Chiavari in Italy, clean, well fed and watered..a really nice few days..

So I drove along the Autostrada, initially heading for Puget Theniers, then had a re-think (having checked the map) and so started to head for Tende, nearest to Monaco… the roads were relatively quiet , and the temperature as I drove along was a ‘pleasant’ 30/31C !

I came off the Autostrada, just before entering France, and then drove up into the mountains, eventually entering France in the mountains…somewhere !

I got to a very sunny and hot Tende, around 1 p.m., too hot for climbing (yet…) and so got some food, had a look around the museums, until later in the afternoon when it was getting a little cooler

I set off up the hills towards the start of the Via Feratta – I had done it last year, so had a rough idea where the paths were, and was soon at the start of the route, put all my gear on, and set off up onto the cliffs…there were some dark clouds, but I thought I’d be safe enough, hoping to finish it before any rain…however, not to be.. as I’d only just got over the first stretch, the clouds darkened, but worse…the thunder started rolling across the mountains !

One place you don’t want to be in a lightening storm… is on metal cables and rungs…. and so I decided to turn back, and go back down into the village, accompanied by the thunder crashing around the area, although it didn’t start raining…

I got some food at the local shop, and found myself a nice spot for the night, near to a main road, but a river next to me with the water crashing down, so drowning the traffic noise ..and I settled down for an entertaining evening watching the fireflies buzzing around, and the starry sky beckoning…although I was soon asleep for the night …

Awakening Tuesday morning after Breakfast I drove back into Tende, for another attempt at the via Ferratta..I was sat near to the start, enjoying the peace, as a guided group of about 10 arrived, and set off across the wire bridge and cliff opposite …I wasn’t going that way ! – I was going an easier way (although I was tempted !),I was glad I’d selected the easier option, as that was tricky enough, although not too testing, and I was soon in full flow over the cliffs, passing some churches/chapels built on the top of the Aiguillette’s, although I wasn’t doing much sightseeing, as I knew there was some tricky bits to come…and as I traversed around a cliff side, there it was, a Himalayan bridge, stretched between two of the rock towers, which  managed quite well, and then up and over some other bits, before arriving at the Tyrolean traverse, known to some as a ‘Zip wire’, a wire rope stretching into the distance, that I had to attach myself to,then…let go…and zip all the way across to the other side, lying back (and thinking of England !) ..I managed quite well, and happy with myself.. I decided to go back to the start…and do it all again !

Although on the second time, the rain arrived, so I had to move a bit quick, before I got a soaking !- seemed funny to see rain, after a period of over 4 weeks !,although it was warm rain .. I had a quick sandwich in Tende, then set off for my next destination La Colmiane, for another Via Ferratta, which I intend doing tomorrow… if the weathers OK

I drove across several mountain passes and Cols, going higher than 2,000mts (higher than Ben Nevis !), and the thunder and lightning started crashing all around me, and I drove in a heavy storm, briefly stopping a few times on the way, checking out differing sights,  got more shopping and arrived at the Via Ferratta car park (my home for the night) above La Colmiane at just before 6p.m.. Its 1680 mts high here, I thought it may help it to be cooler…it’s 24C, and raining !

Lets see what tomorrow brings, I’ve got some wine and cheese on the way over, so I’ll have peaceful night up here, although the weather forecast says…’Hail expected’

A frosty Bonne Nuit to all

A Very Enjoyable… Italian Weekend !

I’d said ‘farewell’ to Corsica, by climbing the Genovese tower at the side of Col de Ste Lucie, which I’d climbed a few times on the bike…it didn’t look a lot higher..but it was !, and very warm in the climbing..then it was back down along the coast, and into the port of Bastia, to a very quiet terminal, for my 2100 sailing – having been loaded on by 1930, and settled in for a nice big meal, finding myself somewhere to sleep ( a Banquette at the back of the cafeteria !), and slept overnight, for a smooth crossing of the Mediterranean, and back into the port at Nice.. with a nice red sunrise at 6 a.m., and smooth disembarkation in Nice, shortly after   7-30 a.m. ..then onto the motorway for my smooth transition into Italy, and to Chiavari https://www.google.it/search?q=leivi+chiavari&client=firefox-a&hs=OQD&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&channel=fflb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=2Y7ZUfrhD4qHPZ25gegF&ved=0CG0QsAQ&biw=1024&bih=434, which even though my satnav wanted to take me another 50 miles…I came off at the right junction and found my way to Lynne’s home, to meet her and Elizabeth, and a welcome few days of rest,relaxation, being fed (and having all my washing done !), and not forgetting some excellent company, who spoke English – I’d forgotten what it was like to converse in English !

On the Friday we went up to Our Lady of Montallegro church,http://www.montallegro.org/en/sanctuary.htm  via a funicular from Rapallo – where Susan and myself had been to Lynne and Fabrizio’s wedding over 23 years ago – what memories !,from where you could look down into the bay of Rapallo, and in the distance Port Fino, where lots of the English footballers  have been married …

We then had a pleasant walk along the ridge line, and through the forest/woodland, and back to Lynne’s for a nice afternoon relaxing in the pool and sunshine !

Saturday we all went into Chiavari itself, for some shopping, and another afternoon of relaxing, watching the Tour de France, live (what a luxury) watching Chris Froome take the tour leaders ‘yellow jersey’,and then the pleasure of some friends around for dinner, and chatting (again in English !)

Sunday it was morning mass at Ste Ruffino http://www.sanrufino.it/ then to La Novellina http://www.agriturismolanovellina.it/index%20inglese.html a rustic restaurant, for a large lunch of authentic Genovese/Ligurian dishes..then back to Lynne’s, for  another day of TdF, Chris Froome retaining the yellow jersey, and then the sight of Britain celebrating with Andy Murray at Wimbledon…and on My Dad’s 88th Birthday…Happy Birthday Dad !

So, I’ve been well looked after this weekend, thank you Lynne and Elizabeth, and now I’m off again, back to France tomorrow…for where ? – I’m not too sure !

I’ll tell you when I get there, if I can …until then Ciao !

Farewell to Corsica…almost

My last complete day on Corsica, and should I have a relaxing day, doing nothing ? –my body certainly felt like it, but, no point wasting the day…I had a leisurely start, and went out on the bike again, riding up to the top point of Corsica –my legs were certainly a bit heavy, but I kept going, having far too long a rest in Maccinagio, before starting the climb up to the Col De Boccha, on the North Westerly point of Cap C’Orse, onwards and upwards..I made it in one go, arriving just before 11-30 a.m.

For the first time since I’ve been here, the place was swarming, lots of cars and motor cyclists, taking pictures of Porto Veturi beneath, and other coastal spots –you can tell it’s just about turning into high season (and time for me to get out !)

So I promptly turned around, and zoomed all the way down into Maccinagio, having promised myself a large ice cream… I couldn’t find a decent Gelatara, and so remounted the trusty steed, and rode back along the East coast, into a fierce headwind which had picked up, almost stopping me at times, and onwards to Santa Severa, where I had a nice salad lunch, at a harbour front restaurant – I selected a good ‘Exotic salad’..with all sorts on it, including avocado –one of my favourites, and a refreshing big jug of iced water- most of which I drank, I was thirsty !

It was time for the final leg, back to the campsite, shower ..and afternoon siesta

I’ve finished cooking here, so I’ll be down on the beach tonight, for a nice meal in one of the beach bars, for my final night in Corsica.. before whatever tomorrow brings

I’ll be travelling overnight Corsica to Nice, arriving 7-30 a.m. Thursday, then travelling across to Lynne and Elizabeth’s in Italy …where she’s promised to do all my washing – very kind, although not mentioned the ironing yet !

So, until the next time Bonne Nuit, Arriverderchi,Ciao and all that…

Gone ….to the Hills !

So, should I have a nice relaxing day..after the busy weekend, or do what I promised myself…climb the hills behind Pietracorbara, and see if I could find a route all the way up to the top ridges.. we’ll see, anyway that’s why I got up at 6-15 a.m., breakfasted, made my sandwiches and was off with a big load to walk up the hills.. it was already hot as I set off at 7-30 a.m., even as I trudged through the undergrowth, with all the birds singing, butterflies/moths flying, a beautiful chorus to greet the day.. and I was right in the middle of it

I did well, having marked the trail I wanted last week, and I recognised it after 30 mins or so, without my signs, although they were still visible, and I started the climb up towards the ridge, by now in the full glare of the sun which was behind me , and it was hot,hot,hot !..that’s probably steam coming off me, it was like being in an outdoor Turkish bath !

I continued climbing, hoping the trail would continue, which it did, until I got to a dirt road, which wended it’s way around the foot of the final ridge, only about 50/100 mts above, but no visible track – I’d got above the 400 mts contour, but seemingly impassable scrub and thorns blocked my way..and I wasn’t going to start ‘bushwhacking’ in my shorts and short sleeved shirt !

I then meandered left, and found another trail up through the brush, so took that as it contoured around to the side of the ridge, and some promise with it…and then I saw glimpses of a building up above, so thought the trail must go somewhere near it, but first…mid morning snack, in the shade of some trees, a well used spot, from where I could look down on Sisco beneath me ,even hear the church bell ringing… and then I continued on the trail, hoping to continue upwards

The building that I could see, turned out to be a church/chapel, built on top of a slab of rock , amazing, and only a foot trail to it ! I made my way to it, locked as you may expect, although I could see through some gaps in the stonework, to see the inside, although I could see better on the pictures.. I then continued, finding another trail, which climbed, although it quickly petered out – I then started climbing up a dry stream bed/gulley, which was quite fun, although got quite tricky with loads of loose rocks, and trees…I eventually gave up, deciding to try no further, although I didn’t seem far from the top ridge, I just couldn’t get to it ..and so retraced my footsteps down the stream bed, contouring around the ridge line, and back to the trail I’d followed upwards.. straight into the late morning sunshine, it was just a matter of getting down as quick as I could, although the 2lts of water I’d brought was handy !

As I got onto the ridge path I’d followed, the sun was bouncing up off the stone, like a cauldron..although I did find some nice specimens of green marble/stone..

I eventually got back to the campsite, after a 5 hour walk, 535 mts climb, and ready for a snooze in the shade, after I’d washed some of the dust off me …so I’d not quite made the top, although had got most of the way, with only a few scars,cuts and grazes to show for it !

So, it was back to the grindstone of snoozing, swimming, and eating, and cleaning the BBQ, ready for packing up and leaving – I even defrosted the fridge !, along with my nice Chilli con Carne which I’d saved, delicious… Bonne Nuit !