216 years ago today, Napoleon led his army of 46,000 men across the Grand St Barnard pass invading Italy... I think the weather conditions must have been a lot better than ours though!! Glorious blue skies greeted me as I drew the curtains at 730am and everyone was in a frenzy to eat breakfast, pack, pay and get going, whilst the snow was still frozen, and so easier to walk on!! Five of us left together, to ensure each other's safety, as there were some steep icy mountainsides to traverse... none of us having any ice equipment with us!!
The sun was already hot, so I continued to wear my shorts (much to everyone's consternation) although I did wear my gaiters for the initial snow descent, and it worked well!! Shortly after leaving the hospice at 920 am we came upon the Italian border crossing, not surprisingly it wasn't manned!!
A last look back up at the hospice:
and down we went, down ever steeper hillsides, some of which were quite treacherous, as they were over the top of rocks, and if anyone had slipped...oops !!
Anyway they didn't, and after almost two hours we came upon the Italian workers ploughing, digging and blowing the snow on the roadway, obviously getting ready for the opening of the pass in a couple of weeks time...
We found it easier now to make progress, although the steep road wasn't too kind on old knees and ankles!! Lower down the valley the exit from the road tunnel appeared, and as I looked back it was hard to imagine I'd been up and over there just this morning!
We were soon into villages, Italian although very much still Alpine:
Across Alpine meadows through St Rhemy, Etroubles, and eventually my nights stop Echevennoz... Next to the hostel owners Trattoria, so hopefully good food also!! It's been a long, exciting and challenging day, 20 kms walked, 1200 metres descended... And still 'Loving it!'
For now 'Ciao'!!
God works in mysterious ways... An old saying we all know so well!! Today he said 'Joe, take a day off travelling have a day of prayer' and so sent a snowstorm which stopped us moving on!! There are worse places in the world to be stranded!! Here at the Hospice the monks were very understanding, in fact without forcing us to stay, were certainly saying it may be better if you do!! So we did... Another day relaxing around this wonderful building, with its beautiful old church and chapel:
It's strong affiliations with pilgrims on the Via Francigena for many years:
It's spot at the top of the mountain - although I've not been outside today!
And it's treasury...and thoughts for all us pilgrims
Everything freely available to wander around, look at, contemplate and pray... I've washed my clothes, snoozed, caught up with my blog... And remembered you all at mass again here on the top of the mountain.... especially my brother and his family as he recuperates in Hospital after a heart attack....
We'd pondered the night before what to do?? Bad weather was coming in, so today was likely to be a good day to get to the top of the Grand St Bernard pass... tomorrow it wouldn't be, and may even dump too much snow on top to tackle it for a while (prophetic thoughts!) Anyway we'd decided to 'go for it' so me, Thomas and Jenny were up at 0530, packed and were out of the hostel for 6 am! Stocked up at the supermarket, and away we set ready to tackle a long day, and high climb... Sandy and Peter were to get a bus half way, and maybe try with us later? The three of us made great time, up amongst the forest trails, quickly climbing the steep paths:
However after almost 4 hours of lung-bursting climbing we arrived in Bourg st Pierre - excellent timing, and giving us a good chance of success
As we got there we saw Sandy and Peter who had come up on the bus, and resumed walking with us... A little quicker than they expected!! Thomas continued alone whilst the four of us carried on a little slower... as we got higher we came across more snow, almost covering the trail at times, but still allowing good safe progress:
As we continued we passed the huge reservoir dam, and up above where the road tunnel takes traffic through the mountain, and into Italy... So time to leave the tracks, and hit the road as it was closed to traffic, allowing us a relatively straightforward journey - albeit a bit longer!!
The road, at least lower down, was clear of snow:
and allowed a group of tired pilgrims a safe route up... harder and harder as time wore on, still steady progress with occasional stops for food and rest! (not corvette sign making!!)
As we neared the top (although we didn't realise it then), the snow walls were getting bigger either side of the road, with the last stretch being worked on by teams with snow blowers and diggers clearing the way for us (and almost covering us in snow!)
we had to scramble over the last few snow banks to be greeted by the sight of the Grand St Bernard Hospice!! A welcoming sight to many a weary pilgrim over the years... Especially in the snow!! We had all made it - Thank God!! and just after 4 pm...
A warm welcome from the monk inside and a huge pot of hot sweet tea!! I had another look around outside, before leaving the winter wonderland and heading indoors for a nice hot shower.
The surprising day hadn't ended... I was about half way to Rome, I was at the highest loin on the top of the Alps... And now? - Mass celebrated in the chapel here - what a fitting end to celebrate a great day!! I often wondered whether I would be able to get over the pass (although I've still got to go down the other side!?), all along everyone's prayers have kept me going... Please keep them up to help me get to Rome!!
We met up again in the morning for breakfast in Martigny before the four of us set off for another long day to Orsieres, and the start of the real climbing ever upwards!!
The sign on the outskirts of the town was a reminder of where we'd hoped to be - Grand St Bernard... Closed!! To cars, not to us Pilgrims though!! (hopefully) Again we were travelling under blue skies but in shaded forests, which kept us cool as we climbed up and up, very soon crossing over the tongue of a glacier, littered with wood debris, but frozen ice underneath!!
So, we had a difficult few hours keeping on the trail, although I enjoyed it!!
We had lunch at Bovernier:
next to the church and fountain - lots of cool mountain water, lovely! We continued up through the woods in the afternoon, seeing the local goat herder in action:
eventually breaking out into the high pastures above Sembrancher, with great views in front of us:
And then down to Orsieres where the local priest was very helpful, letting us into the parish hostel, with mattresses to sleep on, a kitchen-- and great shower!! A donation of only 15 sfr was asked for - 'if you can afford it'!! Welcoming, practical, helpful!! A look around the village:
with a prayer for Pilgrims going 'over the mountains'!! Very timely!!
