I had an early start today as I was concerned that it would be as hot as yesterday, and all a bit sudden for an Englishman to acclimatise!! So, as the clock struck 8 I had already had breakfast and was on my way out of Pont st Martin, and almost immediately up among the vineyards and grapes growing:
a totally different way of growing vines to the French - all being trained across the platforms and to hang down as they ripen... I had taken the option of a route with less climbing (and descending) today, my legs still not recovered from the battering they'd got on the snow and ice on the Grand St Bernard pass... and I'd soon crossed the river out of the Aosta valley, and now into the Piemonte region - all the books say 'it's gentler mountains!'
I spent a lot of time crossing and re-crossing the busy Autostrada, and wandering through small quiet Alpine villages. By early afternoon I was getting into today's destination - Ivrea, and followed some signs for a nice hostel at the Canoe club... A very welcoming place, clean overlooking the river, thundering beneath me with the canoe slalom course there:
I got changed, had a rest and wandered around the town later with an almost 'French' feel to it!?
Another German pilgrim arrived later, he spoke as much English as I did German!! I'd eaten early, and took in the late evening on the river below, ready for an early start in the morning!
So a relatively quiet day, although I've still walked 23 kms!!, and the lady at the hostel says tomorrow is 'even flatter'... Hopefully!?
A nice sunrise from behind the mountains in the hill village of Issogny...
Followed by a nice breakfast for a leisurely day - I knew that I wasn't intending to walk too far today, and so didn't rush...
I still set off around 9 am, dropping down to cross the river, and send my way up and through many remote villages, with their narrow passageways and roads... and often alongside the Autostrada (motorway)
Firstly through Arnaud, and then into Hone... It was a lovely blue sky, lots of people were out and about after yesterday's rain, all of whom seemed to want to say Buongiorno!! To a humble Perregrino!! I had a late morning snack in the backstreets of Hone,
then continued into Donnas and the start of some well preserved Roman features, buildings and memories
this was known as ' the way of the Gauls', and I could feel myself walking along historic roads and paths, with great castles above me
The Roman road, consisting of close set pebbles, then the road was hewn out of the rocks, with great slabs of rock to walk along, and archways to go through
I arrived in Pont St Martin just before 130 for a relaxed afternoon looking around the old Roman bridge, church and town
I've now moved into my seventh week of walking on this pilgrimage... Over 1,000 kms walked, and over 1,500,000 steps!!... And I've lost count of the many prayers and good wishes sent - Thanks everyone!! Keep them up, and I'll continue to remember you all!! Once again thanks to my web editor - Wayne who publishes my blog for me... And everyone!!
The heavens had opened overnight with lots of thunder crashing all around (not that it disturbed me!!) and so it was on the Monday morning it was still raining heavily... There was only one thing to do... Wet weather gear Poncho, gaiters... Even long trousers!! Off I went up up up again, into the hillsides following signs for Chiesa de Montjeux, supposedly 3 hours away... no pictures due to the rain, but lots of good memories of meeting people as I went, even in the rain! I've no doubt it was lovely countryside... But in the rain it was tough!! I arrived at Montjeux just after 12 noon, and wondered what to do? I was soaking wet, hungry and tired - should I get a bus to my destination... Or what? Firstly I saw a nice looking Trattoria and so went in and treated myself to a full 3 course lunch!! Obviously with a full stomach I was ready to continue, especially when I got outside to find the rain had stopped... Even the sun was almost shining!! So off I went, back up into the hills again, along the farm tracks, with low lying snow on the hills not far above me.
I made good time with a full stomach!!, making it into Issogny for just after 4 pm,
where I decided to stay the night... I couldn't find anywhere to stay, asked a girl in a bar if there was anywhere... Who promptly put me in her car, and took me to a Bed & Breakfast - what a gracious gift!!
I was fairly tired and needed it!! There were no restaurants In the village open on a Monday (good job I'd had lunch!), but a visit to the shop provided bread, cheese... And wine!! The views from the B & B were of snow capped mountains... And peace!! - I had the house to myself...
I was up bright and early Sunday morning, as we were all going our separate ways... and so I set off just after 730 am, passing the town hall:
and got myself some food... Then as I walked through Aosta, passing the Roman remains of the city entrances, and Augustinian arch:
and then set off through the outskirts and up into the country vineyards and forests, with the occasional castle turning up along the hillsides as I walked up and along the Aosta valley.
I arrived at Nus just before 12 noon, had a look in the church:
got myself some food at a bar, and then decided to continue my walk that day off up into the hills again, following the tracks and trails ever upwards... And downwards!! I eventually got to my first destination, to find a sign telling me I still had 2 hours 40 to walk... And it was almost 3 pm... That's a long days walk!!
The skies were darkening as I walked, and looked down into the valley:
As I passed one house up in the hills, there was a lovely welcome sign to all the Via Francigena pilgrims
I thrust on, struggling on into Chatillon, to the church of SS Peter & Paul:
and from there to the Capucchin convent, where a welcoming monk gave me the keys to my bedroom for the night... another room provided, for whatever a pilgrim could afford!!
I had a good feed of Pizza and salad and an early night... I was rather tired having walked just short of 30 kms and climbed the equivalent of Ben Nevis - a big hard day!
I'd been wandering around late the night before, spotting this lamppost which shows how important the VF is to the local economy:
A fairly relaxed day ahead, so we had breakfast at 8 am, starting to get used to the light Italian bread... and we all set off around 9 am looking down on our nice nights accommodation
A lovely pleasant mornings walk, across and down the hillsides, frequently along a water channel in shaded woods, with occasional glimpses of the mountains we were leaving behind:
and coming across many little wayside shrines, with mementos left in them:
Late morning we were approaching the top of Gignon, looking over it, I still couldn't resist the distant views, on all sides including distant views of the Gran Paradiso national park (I've climbed it!!)
We had an interesting lunch stop in Gignon, watching all the locals meeting and drinking even at such an early time...
Then we continued into Aosta, where I managed to get a good deal on two rooms at a small hotel, right in the centre of town.
I went into the Cathedral mid afternoon to find it was 'first communion day' just like at home!! I returned later for the vigil mass, then caught up with the others at the Himalayan restaurant!!
A pleasant day of long downhills and hot weather!!
