Home again…..

I had a nice leisurely tramp across France, heading towards home.. after leaving Fleurie I traversed the country on a nice quiet Sunday, eventually stopping at Beauvais https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beauvais found myself a nice Aire, just outside the ‘old quarter’ of the city.. I could hear lots of music down in the town, and so wandered in… a fantastic event was ongoing, I think marking the outbreak of World War 1… there was a lovely free brass band concert in the Cathedral, and various differing groups playing around the town centre.. marvellous !

Next day I headed off in the rain to the outskirts of Calais – I did go in, but didn’t stop in the rain, eventually settling at an Aire at Wissant https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wissant and had a nice wander round later, looking across the channel at the ‘White Cliffs of Dover’, although the rain clouds spoiled the view !

The following morning I was up early, to travel in to Calais, fill my fuel tank…and get the train over… something was wrong, I noticed as when I got my fuel I saw lots of prospective illegal immigrants running around the place, and as I tried to get back on the motorway to get to the Eurotunnel entry…it was blocked off – fortunately for me ! The motorway was at a standstill, and if I had got on, I wouldn’t have moved for 2 days ! As it happened, I avoided the queues ( caused by a strike at the Ferryport, which got worse all day) and made my way via back roads to the Eurotunnel, which was very quiet… and got an earlier train across to England… home again, and into a bit motorway queue from an accident on the M25 !

I still managed to get to surprise my Granddaughter Chloe, on her birthday !

I was now able to relax…and enjoy the cake…

I eventually got home, ready for a busy, but local summer..

I’ve travelled 4,745 miles…phew, more than I expected !

So, until the next time…

Watching my Wine Grow !

I’d decided that I should stop for a few days in my beloved Fleurie… to sample some of the wines, walk and cycle through the countryside,watch the vines grow… and eventually take some wine home with me !

So, that’s what I’ve done !

I’d stocked up with food at a supermarket in Cluny ( just catching them before they closed for the day) and arrived at Camping La Grappe in Fleurie early afternoon… I settled for a short time before heading up to the Cave de Fleurie, to sample some of the wines, and head back to the campsite with a few wines to further sample…I’ve made good selections !

Monday was a little overcast, but it didn’t actually rain until I was out on the mountain bike, trying to work out the bike routes which were signposted from outside the campsite…I got lost, and ended up making my own ‘route’ up, a significant 30 kms trek, that gave me a little idea of how hilly the area actually is, including a visit to La Chapelle la Madonna, on the hillside above Fleurie… a nice leg stretcher, and I was rewarded with more wine to taste !

Tuesday was a wet ,rainy day, when I caught up with my ‘paperwork’, although I’ve not been able to publish any of my ‘blogs’ !

Wednesday, a lot brighter, so I got the road bike out, and headed off in another direction, up and down the hills, until I arrived at Beajeau, and found a big signboard, with all the cycle routes shown… just what I need, and then I found the tourist office, where they kindly gave me some prints of several of the routes…

Off I went on a route ‘Entre Vignes et Forets’, which went up,up and up, from the town 8 kms up to the Col de Crie at 624 mts  ,although I did manage to stop at some lovely churches on the way up ( and down!), from there I continued climbing up to Col du Fut Avenas at 743 mts , and looking down at the Beaujolais countryside beneath me… which I was then able to swoop down along the roads and through, eventually getting to a bit where I could turn left and head back to Fleurie and collapse in my chair… a hard 62kms bike ride …what a day, time for some sun and relaxing ( and sunburn !)

Next day Thursday I was out on my road bike again, into the windy countryside following another of the routes, although I’d done a lot of it on the Monday, ‘Les Balcons de Beaujolais’, I only managed 35 kms before collapsing back at the campsite… someone said I was supposed to relax !

Friday I was up early, and ready to wish my youngest Grandchild Sebastian a Happy 1st Birthday, great to see him bouncing around at home… and then I was out early, for what I’d decided would be my final days ride around, and I headed out on ‘Les Crus du Beaujolais’ up around the back lane, heading for another couple of high cols to get up and over…eventually ..then hurtling down the roads again, watching others struggle up the hill towards me … another 35 kms ride (surprising, I thought it was about 60 !!) and another afternoon of rest ( and clothes washing )

Saturday another big day …. ! A gentle walk up to the famous chapel of La Madonne, from where I could see all the differing vineyards that have supplied my Fleurie wine over the years…I just sat there, looking, and remembering all that lovely wine and happy memories of times here with Susan…

Then, the important thing…as the sun was cooling off to the various caves to pick up my wine selection…. ready for my trip towards home…

I’m leaving here in the morning, with a couple of leisurely days up to Calais, and then crossing to surprise someone…. ??

Adieu !

Meandering through the French Countryside ….

I woke on the Wednesday morning in Roquefort, and after breakfast wandered into the village centre for a look around… the church was the most impressive bit of the village , with even a chapel in the grounds, now dedicated to St James ( he of the pilgrim route !!) as the village has one of the many Caminos passing through it ! I couldn’t find any cheese ‘caves’, and as it started to rain I decided to head off again, to see what I could find !

I was crossing up and through the Dordogne region, and passed over and across it several times, generally going in a North Easterly direction , eventually by mid afternoon arriving at an Aire in the middle of the countryside at Sant Alvere, and settled down beneath a Thunderous thunderstorm, amidst very high temperatures !

I carried on the next day, briefly stopping at anything that seemed interesting, getting food along the way, early afternoon I saw signs for ‘Chateau Hautefort’, and a very impressive structure high on a hill in the distance, so I headed for the car park in the grounds of the Chateau, and went for a wander round the village…almost immediately stumbling across a Hairdressers, and in my ‘perfect French’…arranged for an immediate haircut… I think she thought I wanted my moneys worth…as within minutes I was shorn of my locks, and emerged almost shaven headed ( and $17 lighter !) So I was a lot more lightheaded as I wandered round the village, and treated myself to some fresh bread, and strawberry tart from the Patisserie !, and a pleasant lunch was had in the shadow of the Chateau ( No, I didn’t pay to go in !)

I continued driving along, ready for somewhere for the night, and ended up at a little village called Cressat, and a nice Aire, next to a lake…and peace !

I’d decided by then what my destination would be, and was heading that as I realised i Was very near to Taize’, a wonderful place to be… and so I diverted, and booked myself in overnight to stay there, and go to the Saturday evening and Sunday morning services…so inspiring, and peaceful… a joy to be there, even though it was only overnight….

Then I continued…. for my next stop ?

Anybody guess ( Not so far !)

A Real Bed for a couple of Nights !

Monday morning I was up, packed, and ready for my assignation….

and across through Biarritz to Labenne, and there I met…my son Joseph, who was staying nearby with Nicola,his wife and Thomas my Grandson ! They were staying at Yelloh Village de Sylvamar,Labenne Ocean which had a fantastically huge swimming pool, both indoors and out, so we spent the afternoon running round the pools, trying out the water slides, and occasionally lying down in the sunshine !

I then had the marvellous times, of someone else cooking my dinner for me, as Joseph, the master BBQ chef !, sent great plumes of smoke around everywhere, as he cooked our meal… and then, an early night, ready for the next day ahead ! (and a sleep in a proper bed, although, I think they’re overrated !)

Tuesday morning we headed into Biarritz itself, for a wander round, along the rocks and sea front, in and out of the various structures around, until eventually hunger overcame us, and we had a nice lunch in a surfers bar, overlooking the sea… and the occasional surfer ! 

Then an afternoon on the beach, playing in the sand and pebbles, and back to Labenne for another nice BBQ, and a couple of drinks at the bar with Joseph, before we were thrown out !

The following day, it was raining…. and so, a good day to leave Joseph + family to their hols, and for me to keep moving, on and up through France, meandering around, until I saw somewhere I recognised Roquefort… the place with the cheese, and a handy little Aire for me to stop on..

and so, watching the sunset Bonne Nuit !

Adios Espana….Bonsoir Francia !!

I must admit to having  a nice lie in on Saturday morning – I had had a couple of long days beforehand, and it was nice and quiet where I was…. however , needs must… should I go for a ride back down the canyon…or get travelling North again ?

I decided on the latter , and late morning headed off, through Spain, not sure on where I’d end up today… firstly into the ancient city of Soria – it may have been ancient, but it was really busy, I’m not sure what was going on, whether a race of some sort, but traffic cones were everywhere, and directions chaotic…I did stop briefly at an old monastery, where there was an interesting rock sculpture, and I decided to push on, towards wherever…. by late afternoon I was travelling into the outskirts of Pamplona, I had gone through it quickly last year on the Camino… and today, wasn’t vastly different, although I did stop for some shopping at a huge Hypermarket, and treated to myself to some Sushi… and cakes !! Lovely…filled up and ready to continue, I drove through the madhouse of Pamplona centre, and was then picking up signs for ‘Francia’… there we go, time to get over the border, although it was a lot further than I expected, and not without being welcomed with a dense mountain mist…and already felt colder !

I’d decided to go to a campsite I’d stayed at before in Socoa, up on the cliffs above the Ocean, and I thought I’d best have a couple of showers before …. I met the family ! So, late evening I arrived at campsite Jacinta, and quickly got myself organised,showered….and in bed !

Sunday morning I was up early, to walk down into Socoa village for the 9 a.m. Mass – which I knew would be in a combination of French/Spanish…but largely Basque !  There was still mist on the Pyrenees as I went into church, however as I emerged an hour or so later, it had burnt off, and lovely hot sunshine was my reward… as well as a nice mass with Priest leading the singing in strong Basque Hymns !

Back to the campsite for… a bit of a lazy day, actually !

I did some washing, so I was all clean, watched it dry, and eventually wandered out on to the cliffs to watch the sun go down… as usual the sun disappeared into a sea mist, but what there was of the sunset was nice…. and now I was ready to meet someone….but who ?

Deep in the Canyon

I’d intended having a bit of a lie in today, after my long days travel yesterday, unfortunately no one told the local work force who were obviously getting the municipal swimming pool ready for the season, and I just happened to be parked behind it…Oh well, the sun was shining, and I had a nice breakfast next to the river…

I then drove back to the parking area at Puente de los 7 Ojos, a popular starting point for walking in the famed Rio Lobos Canyon….and I must admit, I was impressed… straight away as I walked away from the parking area…and into the canyon proper, there were already several Griffon Vultures circling overhead, and by using my binoculars I could see in the clefts of the cliff face, some ‘baby vultures’ ( rather large I might add !), the canyon was several hundred meters deep, with sheer cliffs on either side, of some amazing differing rock formations…. and it was hot , and dry !!

The river had disappeared underground in most places, although when it did bubble along the surface, there were lots of frogs loudly croaking, and all sorts of dragonflies hovering over the water…it was great ! I kept walking, only seeing a couple of people who started around the same time as me, so it was also very peaceful ( and did I say….hot !) I bounced along looking at all sorts through my binoculars, and occasionally just sitting in the shade, and listening to the sounds of ….’Nature’

Eventually after about 2 1/2  hours I got to the Ermita de San Bartoleme, an imposing chapel constructed high above the canyon, and clearly near to another parking area, as the trail had got busy just before then, with lots of people walking in the opposite direction to me ! There was a huge cave – Cueva Grande – there also, which I climbed up to the back of… and finally got my camera out ! Above the chapel, was a large hole in the rock, where you could look back up the canyon, framed in the rocks, they were great sites ( and you know I love rocks !), all the while the vultures and large birds were still circling overhead in the midday heat

I had a nice pleasant lunch, in the shade of the trees, before starting on my return journey of another 11 kms walk in the midday sun ! – rationing my one litre of water as I went !

There was a different perspective as I returned, seeing the rock formations from the other direction, all the differing colours seeming to stand out in the full glare of the sun…. and the frogs had gone quiet in the heat !

I got back to the parking area around 4 p.m. and promptly drank 2 litres of water…and made some food, before I headed off to the National Park information centre ( very helpful) and getting some other views from La Gallinea viewpoint up above the canyon, even above the circling Vultures.. there was a gang of motor bikers there from Madrid… any prizes for what the name means ?!

Then it was time to find somewhere to stay again – I found another nice ‘Aire’ at an another village Hontoria Del Pinar, a nice quiet (when the wood factory closed !) large parking area, with fresh water supplied, all in the shadows of a nice rock bluff, protecting me from the thunderstorms across the area !

Only a little rain came my way, so after dinner I had a walk up the bluff, to the large cross erected (and floodlit ) on the top  , pity we can’t have the same at home !

Anyway, a nice enjoyable, although tiring day, 22 kms walk, sights,sights and more sights… and another days travel tomorrow… still heading for the North East !

On the Trail of Don Quixote’

I left Camping Rio Mundo on the Wednesday morning, with a slightly heavy heart…it’s been a lovely quiet site, the weather has (apart from a few thunderstorms!) been really warm and nice…but I can’t stay in one place forever, so I paid up, and headed off…

Firstly into Riopar itself, and finally got the tourist office open, and got some info… and then off to Riopar Viejo,( Old Riopar) another hilltop castle and village, really pleasant and quiet… and I can’t find my pictures for it ! Later in the day, I went back out to the Puente de Christos, and had lunch in the shade of the trees, before venturing down into the valley of Los Churros – the source of the Rio Mundo… high up on the sheer limestone cliffs, the sunken water bursts through the cliff walls and splutters down the face in a growing torrent of water…and waterfalls , and as the evening wore on, I found myself almost alone in the nice big,flat car park 3 kms away from the nearest road…. so , what to do ? – stay of course, so I did, another couple of blokes pitched their tent at the other end of the car park, and we all settled down, under the stars, listening to the pleasant noises of the forest, and having a good kip…..

until 6-45 a.m. when I was awakened by the ‘Guardia Civil’, who, very pleasantly told me I shouldn’t be parked their overnight, and I had to move by nightfall- no problem I told them in my best ‘Spanish/English’ I was going anyway… this is what happens when you sleep in the National Parks, ah well, at least I’d had a full nights sleep, and so set off again on my travels…

I started heading north, firstly stopping at a small village Villanueva de la Fuente, by which time I was already picking up the signs for the ‘Trail of Don Quixote’’… amazing the huge churches that these little villages have… then on to Villanueva de los Infantes, an amazing ‘village’, with it’s famed connections to Don Quixote, and virtually undisturbed old buildings and churches… I called in at the very helpful tourist office here, but by the time I’d got back to Wally, I’d seen most of the town, and so continued on my travels, up towards, and eventually past Madrid, skirting around it, not wanting to stop there….but it was a hot, tiring afternoon of travel, to get up and past the busy Madrid area….

As my wanderings continued, late afternoon I ended up in a village called Ayllon…another well preserved, castellated place – if I could have found somewhere to stay I would have stopped, but couldn’t find anywhere decent, and so continued… and saw some signs for an Archaeological site – Tiermes… I wonder what that is, I thought, only one way to find out…so I drove, quite a bit out of my way, ending up at Tiermes, an ancient Roman settlement, with an aqueduct and bath house, and lots of differing fortifications…  an interesting couple of hours spent tramping around it… before heading off again, for my intended destination… an area called the Rio Lobos Canyon…where I expected to find a wild site to stay at… couldn’t , but as darkness fell I found an Aire at San Leonardo de Yague, which I happily stopped at, and quickly fell to sleep… ready for another days exploring..

Climb Every Mountain ( or Hill !)

It’s been a really peaceful and quiet campsite, and area… although I’ve had to make my own paths or tracks up, it’s been fun… even the Motorbike ‘convention’ of about 30 Motorcyclists camping at the weekend, haven’t really disturbed this nice campsite, although if the Restaurant had been open more, and better…I wouldn’t leave !

Anyway Sunday was a fairly relaxed day, I only had to ride into Riopar for some bread ( 18kms return) !, and  the predicted storm clouds and thunder started rolling in during the afternoon… quite some time before ‘ bang, bang, bang’ sounded from Wally's roof, as hailstones suddenly started peppering the area ! They were the size of small marbles banging down everywhere… welcome back to the real world ! Although it was only short lived, and I was soon sat back outside again

Monday I decided on another bike ride, although there was some rain forecast, I decided to chance it ( and it never arrived !) I rode down into Riopar, and up out of the village… eventually the road ending in a Forest ! So it was back down the hill, through Riopar, this time finding the right road I was looking for…. I knew it as it climbed and climbed and climbed, and of course the sun was beating down on me, as I pushed up and up….a very good, but quiet road, eventually I came to the top of another mountain pass at 1300 mts..was I glad to see it !  and to be able to look down to the valley below , and of course the next best thing was swooping down back the way I came – unfortunately I’d not been able to work out any circular rides, as to do one, would have ended up far longer than I could cope with ! I could manage to get up to 56 kms an hour though, even with all the tight twisting turns and bends, nothing could catch me ( even if they were trying !!), back through Riopar, where I could fill my water bottle, and along a side road towards la tomba Agua, which I eventually gave up on, back down another hill, and return to the campsite… a nice trip of 56 Kms, and 800 mts of climbing… time for a rest, but not all day…

later on I climbed the hills behind the campsite, up through wild Rosemary and Thyme, through the pinewoods with the heat forcing lovely smells out of them all, looking down on to the valley below, and the unusual limestone rocks formations…

I’d had another quiet,busy day, and slept well that night !

Tuesday was ….wash day ! Everything dirty was washed, even my fleece and towels, as I’m moving on again tomorrow, up further North towards France… hope it’s still nice and warm like this place… although I couldn’t resist having another wander up the hills further along the river, again peeking down over the valley and jutting rocks… the smells of vegetation in the afternoon heat were really different, as I sauntered along, up and down  …

So, I’ll be moving on tomorrow, not sure where/when I’ll end up somewhere, so until the, from the Sierra de la Segurra…. Adios !!