Manchester United V city in Le Cite’

It was still lashing down with rain, as I awoke early morning – a good decision to have put the awning,bikes, and everything I could away the evening before ! So, at least I wouldn’t get soaked packing up and setting off.. which after a nice hot shower, and brekkie… I was off, into the torrential Pyrenean rain..

As usual, my trusty Irish girl ‘Tom Tom’ took me up and over lots of differing mountain passes, whilst keeping it cheap for me (no toll roads!), and eventually as I rolled along, the rain got less heavy, and indeed by lunchtime had actually stopped –hurrah !, then miracles again, the sun actually started shining, and so I had a nice picnic lunch, in a well prepared lay by 

By mid afternoon I had arrived in Carcassonne http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne  my destination for the next couple of days – I stayed here 2 years ago, and left quicker that I wanted, and as it’s en route for the South coast, I thought I’d stop again –although my welcome of a Thunderstorm and Lightning wasn’t very nice !

Firstly I checked into Camping La Cite’ http://www.camping-delacite-carcassonne.com/, and then, the real task…could I find a pub/bar showing tonight’s match Manchester United V Manchester city  ?? the girl at reception (who was very impressed that I would only speak French !) gave me a couple of clues, so when the weather seemed a little more settled I rode into town, to try and find them… not having any initial success I then went to the Tourist office, who suggested Le Celt Irish Pub http://www.theceltpub.com/ , which I managed to find, and had that wonderful sight outside… a sign saying ‘Tonight, Sky Sports, Man Utd V Man City, 2100’.. brilliant, all I needed to do now,was get back to campsite,change and return on foot for the big match !

I then set off back ,en route calling into La Cite’ the citadel area, which was then engulfed in another storm, however I passed this by, whilst inside the Cathedral, and viewing some great stained glass windows , and then into the main square, to try and choose which restaurant would get my hard earned money… I eventually setting on a restaurant serving local dishes, although a bit of a ‘dive’, it was very busy, and I had a nice meal of Goats cheese salad, Duck and sausage Cassoulet,and Crepe, washed down with some lovely (and cheap) Vin Rouge, before then marching down into the town, for the match…across the ‘Bridge of Sighs’ – a brooding presence of the travesty that was to come ? The bar was packed, and it was strange to be asked ,in English/Irish, and to get a pint of Guinness (6$ !), before finding a seat in the back room, with Gary Neville (multi Premiership trophy winner with United!) commentating from Eastlands,  or,as they now call it the Etihad ,Manchester city’s (rented) stadium.. then the game started with United pulverising city, who , rightfully were frightened if the opposition, not being used to contending for the title this late on in the season – city’s Premiership hopes are normally dashed by November !

A good first half by United was just coming to a close, when city got a lucky goal – lucky in that the officials  hadn’t spotted the fouls of the city players, and so a goal against the run of play was confirmed, and city were ahead !

The bar was a riot of sound from both United and city fans, and everyone prepared for the second half, which came and went, with no change in the score, and city beating United 1-0, and drawing level on points with United…with few games to go, before the end of the season… will United retain the title for the 20th time, or will city scrape through….only time will tell, and a nervous spell for the city fans – United’s done it all before !!!

a 2 mile walk back to the campsite, beneath the citadel as I mused on the locations I’ve been this season to watch United, from Old Trafford, to Skegness,to Peebles, and now, the South of France, who’d a thought it ?

Sunshine and Hail – Good day for a Barbie

Sunday morning dawned bright and clear, although as I set off shortly after 8 a.m. to walk into the Shrine area for 9 a.m. mass, it was quite cold-the views up onto the mountains around were quite special (and no camera !), mist swirled around the tops, and for the first time I was able to see the snow clad tops…what a walk to Church, almost like being at home !

The mass was celebrated by a very loudly spoken and enthusiastic priest, who I think came from South Africa – the readings and his sermon were all about the Good Shepherd, which I pondered on as I walked home later ..the Prodigal Son, the Good Shepherd, and ..the sheep !

A lovely start to the day, and as I walked back to the campsite with my bread, and defunct umbrella, the strong sunshine took me by surprise, especially as when I landed back I stood talking to a nice couple from Ireland (Phoenix MHC  http://phoenixmhc.wordpress.com/ ) , in fact I was stood there talking outside Wally for so long I got sunburnt !!!

I did manage to get some views from the campsite..

I then took it east for the afternoon, the sun kept shining through intermittent showers, and I decided that as I had missed my BBQ the night before, I would have one today, and save my ‘Sunday meal out’ for Monday in Carcassonne (where I go next)

I had also got taking to a very adventurous couple from Munich,Germany who were returning from 4 weeks in Morocco, and highly recommended it , will have to see ..                                     ( Just need an adventurer to join me now ? )

Again, talking so long in the sunshine, I was getting sunburnt, and as I was about to light the BBQ...the heavens opened, and a hail shower battered Wally, and me, dashing for cover - really large hailstones, with thunder, however it soon passed over, and without more ado I had the BBQ on, and cooking, a  lovely sight and soon polished off..scrumptious !

I packed everything up, and paid ready to move early the next day, as I had done so much, I decided to walk into town again, for the Rosary procession at 9 p.m., and boy, did it start raining ! Fortunately, being a boy scout I gad taken my brolly with me, and needed it, as the rain came down it stair rods, drowning everyone, but I managed to stay mostly dry, and wandered back to the campsite squelching through soggy streets..

So, farewell to Lourdes again

Au Revoir, Bonne Nuit  ! 

Rainy Days and Saturdays..always get me?

A miserable morning, not of heavy rain, just pattering along all the time, on and off, so eventually I decided to have a ‘proper’ Englishman’s Saturday lunch…an egg butty !

although these baguette things make it difficult to get your mouth round !

 

 

 

 

 

and then, sustained for a big trip, I decided to ride a Voie Verte (bike path), between Lourdes and Pierrefitte-Nestalos, along an old railway line, that had been tarmacced over..it was pleasant, even in the intermittent rain…which as you’ve guessed kept getting heavier, as I climbed higher into the mountains ,

although thankfully it wasn’t too cold

As I passed along by differing villages, there were signposts suggesting ‘diversions’ to have a look around places of interest, which on a nice day I would have done…unfortunately by the time I got to the ‘end of the line’, around 15 miles,  I was soaked, and all I could think of was …a fast ride back, hoping the rain may stop –it didn’t, so the views of the Abbeys on distant hilltops were wasted on me…all I could see was a wet path in front of me…back to Lourdes ,and a hot shower…before the really heavy rain started !

So, no BBQ tonight, packet something or other… and reminded me why I’m NOT going up into the mountains …..at least I’m still smiling !!

Peace,Perfect Peace….almost !

I had decided that I would make today a ‘special’ day within the shrine at Lourdes, with lots of special intentions and people to remember, I had decided to ‘make the day of it’

So that’s what I did,almost…I did spend a leisurely morning eating Pain au Chocolat, drinking coffee and watching the day go by, interspersed with visits to the Accueil to get on/off the internet !

Eventually, after lunch, and spruced up, I walked to the sanctuary area, it was cool, but dry, and sometimes even the sun put in a hesitant appearance

There were lots of people there, but by no means what it’s like around certain feast days, and later on in the warm weather – although the Italians were there…chattering as usual !

Suffice anyone who’d asked, and didn’t ask …were remembered in a very pleasant afternoon and evening, drinking in the spiritual calmness, and later the Marian Rosary procession at 9p.m.,  followed by a swift walk home to warm up, and bed

Bonne Nuit

My Own Little Pilgrimage

As I awoke in La Rochelle I wondered whether I should stay another day, as the sky was clear and blue, with the prospect of a nice day…however the wind was still fierce, and i decided to stick to the plan…..which was to carry on down South , for some hopefully better weather.

I had a comical time in the reception, speaking to an elderly lady, who clearly couldn’t speak any English, and my French was difficult…to say the least, although we managed , and I only paid for 2 not the 3 nights she wanted !

Then it was off, and along the quiet French roads, I had (for economy,and touristic purposes !) decided not to travel on the Peage roads, and to stick to the ‘back roads’ which was quite informative as I travelled across the countryside of Bordeaux, noticing that the grape vines were only just ‘waking up’ after the winter, and sparse leaves were just beginning to show

I had wondered whether to stop in Bordeaux itself, but it looked mighty cold and inhospitable as I travelled through it, and so carried on driving, again across the country roads, seeing vast areas of cultivated land, and forest, which as I went over mountain passes, were covered in rain, and the fields seemed to be almost under water

By mid afternoon I had reached my destination – Lourdes, scene of my recuperation last year, and a wonderful pilgrimage location…and the sun was shining and distinctly warmer !

So, I worked out which campsite to stay at, and went back to the one I gad stayed at last year Camping Sarsan, slightly noisier than others, but close to the centre…and cheaper !

Even the owner remembered me from last year – must be making an impression (of what I wonder ?), and I was quickly installed, had a look around what I planned, and settled in for my evening’s BBQ… before the rain started !

Oh well, there’s an intermittent internet signal in the office, so at least I can make contact, and the prospects of a nice weekend, where at least I’ll be able to manage mass in English, and remember those I need to !

Should Have Kept Going….

I’s packed up in Erquy, on another wet rainy morning, so gladly set off for further South – I had originally planned on going to the lower half of the Brittany coast, on the Ponte de Raz…but as the weather here seemed so poor, with no real prospects of improvement, I had settled on going to the La Rochelle area http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Rochelle , as I had heard so many reports about it being nice,good for cycling, and having it’s on pleasant micro-climate… so I set off with great hopes, soon improved with some sunshine to accompany me, and the rain soaked roads of Brittany were no longer…dry,even dusty roads, and clear blue skies, although still windy..

I got to the area of La Rochelle by mid afternoon, didn’t like the look of my first selected campsite…bought provisions, and checked the weather forecast at a convenient McDonalds…to find it raining the following morning, although then brightening up for a couple of days, so I decided to stay, and move as the rain came in (again)…I then went to 2 further campsites which hadn’t even opened for the season (perhaps someone telling me something ?), I had decided not to go out on the Ile de Re’ http://www.iledere.com/ (again recommended), which seemed to have most campsites…as I didn’t fancy the extra wind,–probably a good choice- that an Island would have and settled for Les Sables http://www.camping-les-sables.com/ , at Aytre’ ,just south of La Rochelle…and settled in for a couple of days sunshine, relaxer out…and even did some washing !

After dinner I had a walk out to the nearby beach, where several very acrobatic kite surfers were displaying their talents , being pulled up out of the water, flying through the sky across the brown murky waves…I even managed to catch one in the background to me.. as the sun went down it had gone a bit chillier, but certainly not as cold as Brittany, and later I didn’t even have the heating on in Wally, for the first time this trip !

Then as I wandered back to the campsite, across some desolate landscape…I found a real challenge…could I get all the way along the logs between the lampposts…?eventually….Yes ! although it took several attempts, including a couple where I failed on the last log…small things etc…

I returned to Wally, where, when the rain started it really did….all night and the following day…so, all I could do was sleep in, read a full book, go for a swim,plan where next……and 

Flying the Flag….Happy St George’s Day

Well now you know as much as me, and I’m still here in Brittany,on a wild,wet  and windy day…..flying the flag for England, and wishing everyone a ‘Happy St George’s Day’…. I say flying the flag for England, as it’s only us mad English who venture out for the entire day, when I’ve had all the seasons together !

I awoke again to the gentle patter of rain on the roof, around 4 a.m., which then proceeded to get heavier all night…I had planned an early start, and a walk along the GR34 footpath , http://www.wmaker.net/opcc/gr34/  but the bad weather had me wondering whether I should just clear off for somewhere new,however the rain eased, and I had the ‘butties’ made, and so mid morning I set off for a walk around the headland of Erquy, all around the coast, and return! Initially it was warm,sunny and very pleasant, even allowing me to do some deviations along the way, into ‘Les Lacs Blu’- a sport climbing area up amidst the cliffs in an old quarry, where the red sandstone was cut out, I couldn’t get very high…I only had 30 seconds to dash from the camera to ‘pose’ !!,    then carrying on over the headland the black clouds again started to roll in, and soon I was wrapped up in full waterproofs and leggings, battling against the roaring rain, turning to hailstones…just when I was on the exposed top ! I battled on regardless, until around 2p.m. when I decided to ‘about turn’ and return …I had been walking for about 3 1/2 hours, and obviously would have a similar amount of time to return…now into the fierce winds !

The rain kept coming and going…the wind didn’t ! but I made good time back into Erquy, where I stopped for a nice Glace’ (with Creme de Menthe poured over !), and back across the sands,able to take a short cut as the tide was out, exposing the wide sandy beaches, and again battling into heavy rain, which accompanied me all the way home !

So, having got back for just before 5 p.m., a hot shower, more Chilli… and time to plan where next…I’ll tell you when I get there !

Now that’s What I call….Sunday Lunch !

I awoke to the sound of the rain bouncing off Wally’s roof,and looking out saw nothing more than black clouds, and rain …Oh dear, hope I won’t get wet getting to Church ?

Once again someone was looking after me, as the rain stopped, and I managed to have enough time for a shower and change, before riding into Erquy for 1030 a.m. mass. As I got there the bells were just starting to ring, the sun was shining, and people were appearing from everywhere… Again I was given a leaflet with all the Hymns and readings printed on, although in French, I was able to translate enough to know what they were about, and join in… a very pleasant service, in an old church with a full congregation

Afterwards I returned to the Harbour area, looking out at all the windsurfers whistling across the bay, helped by the strong winds, and then made my way along the Harbour front Restaurants, selecting where I was to have Lunch, oh and what a Lunch I was to have ! I went to Le Vivier Restaurant, overlooking the bay, and say on the terrace area, although behind blinds to stop the wind, and near to some of the ingredients.. but I couldn’t eat what I could still see swimming, and so had a great lunch of Aperitif and snacks,souppe de Poisson (fish soup) avec accoutrements,  local mussels and prawns,grilled ,and an apple creation dessert !-finished with a flourish..  I had bees sat in the hot sunshine, as the Restaurant filled with diners, and then the downpour came, so I sat there until the rain had passed over, and then wandered along the front, and eventually riding back to the campsite, for a well deserved afternoon snooze !

I then spent the rest of the day deciding what to do, and where to go next…when I know, I’ll let you know !

Hail..the Mighty Wind at Le Marche’

I thought I’d worked it out…fine in the morning, and worse as the day went on…so, up bright and early and rode into Erquy for the Weekly market, and quite impressive it was, and even I was tempted…. buying a ‘Sabatiere’ knife for 19 euros, I think I got a bargain (unless it’s a fake !), then having had enough shopping went on to the sea front, watching the windsurfers whipping across the harbour and bay, at a really fast speed ,then it was back to racing the rain…back to the campsite, as I thought it was going to be really bad, for quite some time…I got back with only a mild soaking, and then the sun came out with a vengeance, and I sat there relaxing,reading, and generally taking it easy, it staying mainly dry, although there were occasional ‘hail showers’ !

I even managed another ride to the nearby beach in late afternoon to watch the kite surfers whipping across the bay…shows how strong the wind is !

Then it was back to Wally for a Saturday evenings Chilli and Rice !, and an early night, although I have been hoping for a clear sky to see the meteor showers forecast for the middle of the night !..

Everyone’s prayers are working …Fr Johns' taken a turn for the ‘better’,has now been released from Hospital, and awaiting further treatment…well done, keep it up !

Sunshine and Showers ….with Lots of Flowers

The thunder of the rain hammering on Wally all night, had me wondering what the day would bring, I did however, wake up to lovely blue skies,although the clouds did gather, and dissipate with regularity,and…no rain !

So setting off on my bike for a ride into Erquy http://www.erquy-tourisme.com/gb-index.php I was soon onto the sea front (after only 1 wrong turn of 2 miles !), basking in the warm sunshine, and watching the sand yachts blistering across the sands…the wind a constant companion, although almost warm ! I made my way around the Port area, watching the last remaining boats come in, as the tide went out.

That’s when the ‘game’ started… dodging the showers, which were frequent and heavy, although if I managed to stay out of them, the sun soon returned and was nicely warm. I had a look around the town centre, and helpful tourist office, located the nice old church (noted for Sunday mass), and then around and onto the cliffs overlooking the port and harbour area …before wending my way back towards the town… and getting caught in a thunderstorm,soaked and seeking refuge in the ‘trolley hut’ of a supermarket… kindly pictured by a young French lady

before making my way back to the camp site, for a hot shower…and sitting in the lovely evening sunshine !!!!

Happy Birthday to my eldest son Gerard…you’re catching the old man up now, I can even remember when I was your age !!  

and so, the evening sunshine tempted me, to have another trip down to the Beach, watching the unusual cloud formations, and riding across the hard sandy beach…again goodnight, a steady 28 miles riding today…time for a nice kip !

Bonne Nuit 

From Coast to Coast

I had decided to move on today, and even though the sun was shining, the wind gone…I carried on, leaving Camping Joncal at Grandcamp Maisy, for my next port of call. Before going I gazed out onto the gentle seas…and drove across the Normandy countryside…shortly in to the black and menacing clouds overhead.

I traversed across Normandy and on to the Cote d’Armour http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%B4tes-d%27Armor not to be confused with Amour (only to be whispered..softly !!), and to the Camping Les Roches, http://www.camping-les-roches.com/uk/default.php, near to Urquy, on the Northern Brittany coast,with the advantage of Wi-Fi on the site,so I can really catch up with people !

I had arrived mid afternoon, having shopped en route, and once there, did a favourite meal of….chicken curry and Garlic Naan bread, followed by blue cheese,washed down with plenty of wine… whilst being welcomed to Brittany by… a rainbow (things to come), however I decided to have a little meander along the roads near the campsite, trying to get down to the beach…sadly all I got was a muddy field, and a soaking from the frequent rain showers …that’ll teach me to go walking where I don’t know, especially after an evening meal(and wine !)

So, welcome to Bretagne, I look forward to spending a few days here..

Before I leave you please remember  Fr John in your prayers, he’s been having Chemotherapy after his bowel operation, which has been suspended because of problems with his Liver..he has returned to Hospital in Northern Ireland, and needs all our prayers…he will appreciate them ! 

A Blackout,or Blowout !

A wet and windy morning, with very black skies, which frequently sent hail showers tumbling down,had me doing the sensible thing…lying in bed, and reading !

However, eventually shortly after midday the rain stopped, and it looked potentially ‘nice’, so I got the bike out, and with my packed lunch, headed for the German Military Cemetery at La Camba http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Cambe_German_war_cemetery, it was about 7 miles away, and having seen it’s location, I decided I should go to see one of ‘theirs’ ! This is the largest German military cemetery, now containing over 22,000 bodies, in one place !

I battled the strong headwinds, as I rode inland,and eventually made it there, still dry, although slightly perspiring !It was laid out quite differently to any cemetery I had seen before, no upright stones, apart from lots of groupings of 5 crosses together, a common feature of all German military cemetery’s, and a central mound containing many bodies, unidentified,and many not even in one piece ! I was gladdened to see many school parties visiting, this forlorn piece of Normandy, indeed many British were also visiting ,but because of the lack of headstones, and small plaques, it was difficult to appreciate 22,000 + graves, the biggest cemetery I had ever been to.

Occasionally on the windswept fields some flowers had been placed over a gravestone. I said some prayers, and left the area saddened ,as always by such a waste of young,and not so young lives

Then it was back to the coast, through the Normandy countryside, viewing the old round farmhouses, and the local church at La Camba,with it’s  beautiful stained glass windows,and peacefulness, for some more windswept adventures- as I had looked along the sea front, I could see in the distance old German defensive positions,some of which were already being re-taken by the sea, and I set off for a look  ,as you do !

As I sheltered from a rain shower, inside the gun position, I could see the Normandy fishermen,at work on the Oyster beds, in the bay – I counted at least 20 tractors, busily doing their work before the next tide came in, a real hive of industry for the famous Normandy Oyster !http://wikitravel.org/en/Normandy 

I was still busily rooting through the old structures, sheltering from the rain, and being nosy…when ‘disaster ‘struck ! I had a puncture,and flat tyre, so had to walk back about a mile to repair the several holes, eventually resorting to a new inner tube to fix it, and a soaking into the bargain !

But the sun had again come out, so it was another BBQ, before packing up and ready to move on again tomorrow…Bonne Nuit !