Everyone was up at 5 am!! So I managed to get a lie in till half past, and then up, breakfast of fruit outside:
Soon after 630 am I was heading out around the town, down through the gate in the walls, across the busy surrounding road and following another ancient road through fields:
There were big blocks of rock building up the sides of the road. I did pass some ancient Catacombs (locked!!) so carried on through the fields and roads again on a similar route to the last few days... I did spot a man hard at work in his field... Did you??
The weather was cooler today, or maybe I was getting used to it, but, throughout the days route there was no water... Thankfully I survived... Into the suburbs of Vertralla, a bit of a run down town with a big church, as usual!!
After a break in the town, we got some food, and walked out to the Benedictine Convent on the outskirts, for a pleasant afternoon relaxing in the huge garden, listening to the nuns singing, and later a communal dinner... Although there were not many there...
Tomorrow it's back to normal distances of 25 kms or so.... All the way to Rome... Not far now, 92 kms and counting!!
I was up for breakfast at 6 am, although there wasn't much!! And then headed out through the empty streets of Montefiascone... Firstly passing the 'pilgrim statues' up on the hill, overlooking the lake and the plain:
On the foot of the statue was a plaque which said 'don't count the steps that you have taken... Remember the marks which you have left' - a good statement for us all to think of!! Down the hill I went, and through some old avenues of trees and bushes:
Until then I came upon the ancient 'Via Cassia' believed to have been built in 4th C BC!! And still in excellent condition, and surprisingly easy on the foot to walk over...
I was walking between vineyards and olive groves, well away from habitation, and very peaceful... Mid morning I caught up with Frida (from Estonia) just before the thermal baths at Bagnaccio, which we went in to (pilgrims were free!!) and spent a leisurely hour or so in the differing hot pools relaxing, and lazing in the sun. There were lots of people there, but surprisingly relaxed atmosphere... And no photos!! Late morning we left there, for our days destination - Vitorbo - again on the crest of a hill, standing out as we walked along the hot gravel tracks
and after a slight deviation to a shopping centre for lunch!!, we were up into the old town heading for the Torre del Pius VI...
a tower actually in the fortified walls of the town, and reputedly a place where the Pope was imprisoned... History indeed!! We were there by mid afternoon, a leisurely 19 kms today, with plenty of time to wash clothes, mingle with more pilgrims who had just started for Rome, have a look round
and eat a good dinner...
Another leisurely day tomorrow, so ended up late to bed, chatting in the tent outside the tower away from the mosquitoes!! A nice spot to stay...
A leisurely start to the day, with 730 am mass at the Cathedral next door, as I'd packed and was ready for a short days walk... After mass it was coffee and brioche, then on the road out of Bolsena, and up into the Olive Groves, as again I was walking on gravel / dirt roads virtually all day...
It was nicely sunny, but not too hot so a pleasant walking day...
As I looked down onto Lake Balseno below, and charged my way through the forests, with just the birds for company... I had a few leisurely stops, before looking up ahead I could see a town on the top of a hill - Montefiascone, today's destination, again up at the top of a hill as I walked along ancient tracks and trails... Some nicely shaded!!
Early afternoon I was coming into Montefiascone, and the first church, with a sign outside 100 kms to Rome!!...
The first of many I'd see today, all referring to the shortest way by road... Which I wasn't doing, in any event I'm getting closer!! I got into the centre and found my way to another convent - Monasterio de St Pietro, where I was welcomed by a lovely nun from El Salvador... Who giggled a lot!! I had a look around the city later, with distant views from the top of the Torre del Pellegrinos... Towards Rome in the hazy distance, and another 100 kms to go sign!!
Dinner in the convent, and a restful night to follow!!
Up early at 5 am, although it wasn't really needed - the Italians like to get up early, and when they're up.... Everyone is!! Shortly after 6 am I was wandering past the Cathedral in Acguapedente:
I noticed a street sign saying it was already 18C, although it felt cool... Maybe I'm getting used to the heat?! Through the outskirts of the town and into the surrounding wheat fields, a nice day for a walk! Everything is provided for me, even when I needed the toilet... Up popped a new bar surrounding a trout lake, and coffee at 1€ - perfect!! Continuing through the fields growing wheat, or solar farms, it was quite pleasant, by just after 9 am I was entering San Lorenzo nuovo, a rather plush new town, overlooking Lake Bolsano beneath it!! A magnificent church, rather pretentious though, it had barriers up so you could see... But not touch!!
I stocked up with my days banana ration and then continued into the surrounding woods, up and down along the differing paths even coming across new signs... At least I'm heading the right way!!
By early afternoon I was arriving into Bolsena, with great views over the lake below, and a big church as you entered the town
I found my way to the Cathedral, knowing there was a hostel nearby... Whilst I was trying to locate it... A nun came out and waved me over to it!! Very pleasant welcome in a large room at the back of the convent...
I went into the Cathedral for a visit and later mass - a very unique place - the actual spot where, in 1263 the blessed host began to bleed, as a polish priest asked God for a 'sign'... You can see the altar stones stained in blood still in the Cathedral and the altar where it happened...
I had a great meal later, although expensive and retired ... Not too early as the three of us who were there had decided we didn't need such an early start tomorrow!! I've now walked 80 days... And it feels like it... Before 90, I expect to be in Rome - a great and welcome feeling!!
A nice figure to start the day... My guide book says it is exactly 200 kms to St Peters Square, Rome... I bet it takes... Forever!! A gentle start to the day with 530 rising, and breakfast at just after 6 am... The volunteers at this hostel do such a good job - thanks!! By 620 am I set off through the empty streets of Radiffocani, and straight away down the steep surrounding hill... looking back for quite some time you could still see the hilltop town and castle
Again I was walking along gravel/dirt roads, which as usual reflected the hot sun up at my face... By 9 am I was at Ponte a Rigo - where the or used bar... Was shut on Sunday's!!... And I had to decide... Go left for a day walking along the busy roads... Or go right, walk 8 kms further, but on (supposedly!) nicer tracks... me and Africa chose the longer route, much to our later regret, whilst everyone else went left!!
Off we went, and spent the first 5 kms on a Tarmac road, quiet but still Tarmac, however then back onto gravel roads, cross country, up and down the undulating terrain... another hot day, fortunately there were several water fountains scattered along the route, some of the water not very pleasant... But when you're thirsty, any water will do - I think I drank about 6 litres of water as I trudged along!!
By 1230 we marched into a hill hamlet Proceno, where the solitary bar was at least able to give us food and drink (and an ice cream!) Then we were off again up into the hills, passing a lovely old church on the outskirts with its ancient free is still visible...
Then we plunged down the hill again, and along an old trail alongside a river, with plenty of shade:
not to last though, as soon we were out in the full sun again, starting our climb up to today's destination - Acguapedente - with a handily placed fruit wagon at the bottom of the hill and a juicy peach to sustain us, we climbed up up up, until we we climbing up through the ancient gateway to the city
We arrived around 330 pm at the parish hostel next to St Rochs... To be greeted by everyone else who'd walked along the road, and hit there several hours earlier!! Was it worth it?... Probably not, ah well!! Having got showered and changed I managed to get around many of the churches, all within ball throwing distance of each other, until I found St Lorenzos and evening mass at 7 pm, followed by a kebab and chips, quick look round town... And bed!
