From Francais to Angleterre, and Home !

An overcast morning in Guines, as I steadily got ready for my mid day trip on the ferry from Calais to Dover, having my last couple of Pain au Chocolat, and a nice pot of coffee..

The sun was breaking through the clouds, as I set off from La Bien Assise campsite, laughing as I remembered being here with Susan and the children, on one of our epic trips..how long ago ? – I’m not sure !

I then drove to Coquelles, where I spent the last of my Euros (well, almost) in filling Wallys tank with Diesel, at $1-36 a litre, cheaper thatn England, even if it was in sterling !

I then arrived at the port at 12 noon, to find the sea mist rolling in, and fog horns sounding everywhere…Oh dear, I hope there’s no delays, I did hear that a few days ago everything was delayed due to the fog, let’s hope that’s not the case today !…er Yes it was !

We set off in a sea mist/fog, and arrived in Dover over an hour late..then it was traffic jams on the M25, M1, and rain, lots of it – welcome home Jotown !!

I arrived home just after 9 p.m., to a nice rest, I’ll unpack tomorrow..

I’ve travelled over 3,000 miles

I’ve broke the water tank on Wally

I’ve broke the electric kettle

I’ve broke the garage door opener..

what a welcome back !

Hope you’ve enjoyed this segment of my travels

-busy weekend ahead, No, the Queen’s Jubilee celebrations (although they come afterwards)

-my lovely daughter Anna’s 30th Birthday, and a big party on Saturday..

-with lot’s of other celebrations during my few weeks at home, I may even tell you about some of them

So, in the meantime.. A’bientot !!

Going Home, Going Home..

I was up early having decided to travel North across France the ‘slow’ way..which would take me 2 days to do.

I set off around 9-30 a.m. and was soon swooping along back country roads, with France fairly quiet – what I didn’t realise until much later was that it was a Public Holiday, for Pentecost, and so there were no waggons on the road, making the travelling much easier , although all the shops were shut !

As I got further North the clouds increased, but still it was nice, and grabbing lunch as I went along I was making good progress, although I didn’t seem to be getting much nearer my destination..

I travelled through Fountainbleau, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fontainebleau  and stopped to look at the famous boulders that people come from all over the world to climb, and had an ice cream there..before heading off again. I had contemplated stopping around there, but wanted to make more progress, which I later regretted as I was stuck in traffic jams in thunderstorms on the motorway for a long time – I think a lot of traffic was caused by people returning to Paris from a weekend away causing chaos..

then I was out into the sunshine, and through Paris with views of the Eiffel tower, and Sacre C’oeur, and the boulevards of the city flashing by, as I kept adhering to my Irish colleen,who kept me on the right track..

As it was getting lat5e I eventually pulled into some side roads, and found a spot to stay for the night in Piccardy, just in time to watch the sun go down.. and rise again the following morning so that I could continue my trip in the morning mist, and eventually ,by late morning, reach Guines, not far from Calais, ready for Wednesdays trip home

http://www.camping-la-bien-assise.com/

I’ll now have a rest, eat out and prepare for the English weather..

and a final Bonne Nuit !

Getting the Taste

I’d had a great trip across the Alps, with great sights to behold of the mighty mountains towering above, and eventually making my way by late afternoon to Fleurie –for the wine !

I was quickly up to the wine co-operative to select some wines for the weekend of tasting , although I bought several, in truth I still having drank most of them, although I did have lots of samples – and refused even more ! over the weekend.

My first night was a relaxing BBQ, and good wine, and whilst I was showering late the first evening, I even manage to miss a thunderstorm and lightning !

The following day I was up early, and out to the town square, for the Saturday market, which, unfortunately wasn’t as large or good as I remembered, although I did get some cheeses.. it was a lovely day, which I then spent in the swimming pool, and lying in the sun (too long, Ooops !)

In the evening there was a wine tasting from one of the local growers, with an extensive collection to sample, no wonder I bought so much !

Then it was off to the village for an evening meal, which I spent with a couple from Yorkshire, who have lived in Switzerland for 36 years !- and love Fleurie, although they can’t take as much home with them,so return 2 or 3 times a year !

Sunday morning I was up bright and early for church, which fortunately was actually in the church at Fleurie, as my final French mass, and meandering around the village, before in mid afternoon going out for my selection of wines, ready for the journey on the following day – sufficient was purchased ! and views of the country remain

I spent the evening having my final French BBQ,and an early night..

Bon Soir..

Now, for the Serious Stuff !

The thunder and lightning eventually settled down, and I had a good nights sleep, even managing to see the stars again on occasions

A heavy morning mist hung over the mountains as I awoke, and I decided that even though it was now dry, the rock was likely to be slippy, and so, with my new found caution (and an ulterior motive) I decided to finish the climbing for this trip !

Now the serious stuff starts…

I’ve re-located to http://www.fleurie.org/

at the camp site, with education on my mind..!

and some wine to taste…

so, I may not be in touch for a while…

before my trip home next Wednesday…

Cheers….Jotown

An afternoon on the Terraces…!

I’d had a good nights sleep, although I was awake quite a few times, looking up at the starlit sky, although I was so tired, I could only ‘gaze’ for a short time, before resuming my slumbers ! Not a soul had passed since I arrived until 7 a.m. this morning , when some foresters drove past, but only a few, so it was pleasant Breakfast, as I looked forward to the day ahead, contemplating doing this via Feratta, and moving on to the next before lunch ? – how wrong I would be !

By 9 a.m. I was ready to go, and in the morning sunshine set off from my nice camp spot ,having had a refreshing wash in the River to start the day off ! When I got to the information board, http://www.laviaferrata.net/topo-via-ferrata-faurie.html I found that since my route description from the book had been done, the route had been split into two, a tres sportif (very difficult) and a facile (easy), so which to do (or both?). I decided that the ‘new me’ should just do the easier one, so set off up the track, between the limestone cliffs, to find the easier route..easier said than done ! After a bit of searching I came across what appeared to be the route, and set off upwards into the trees, and cliffs above.. it seemed a peculiar route, being quite hard for no real reason (all would be explained later in the day ) Views across the valley were pleasant though, with water poring down the opposite cliffs. I was soon at the top, and carried on upwards, trying to find the descent path – to no avail, and I started to wonder whether I had actually climbed the descent path( I had !), and so, now had lost that,as well as the reasonable way down . I wandered along the top of the cliffs, trying to find a path, and eventually came upon a scree slope/path which I followed,and eventually scrambled down to safety !

I wandered  up and down the trail several times, determined to find the correct route, until eventually after several attempts, I spied a little sign nailed to a tree, indicating the route – none that I’d done ! So I returned to Wally, had another wash in the cold river, being boiling hot by now, and had lunch and rested in the heat of the midday, to return again in the afternoon..

which is what I did, shortly after 3 p.m. I packed up and started out again, although a lot of cloud had moved in, and I wondered whether there would be storms later...

I again found the correct path, and set off up into the trees, soon being confronted with climbing a wall up the cliff, then out and onto a terrace above the cliffs below, that was a lot of this route, sounds a lot easier than it was, as frequently I was having to go round corners, hanging out over the drop below, and convincing myself ‘It’s an ‘easy ‘route’ -  was it flippin ‘eck !

Fortunately by now this side of the cliff was in the afternoon shade, so although hot, wasn’t really too hot, although my ‘nervous sweats’ didn’t help !, finding unusual things along the route did though !

The traverse along the cliffs was quite lengthy, every time I thought it was the end, I’d turn a corner, and see another long terrace snaking out in front of me , and the ‘drops’ seemed to be getting bigger !

However I eventually found my way to the end of the traverse, up and down a few more walls, and... I was at the spot where I’d climbed to this morning ! - the down route, it was so much easier doing it the proper way !, and then I was down, hot ,weary,thirsty and satisfied - I’d picked the correct route to do, and done it !

So, all that remained was a full shower in the ice cold(but crystal clear) river, a full change, and an early dinner, before the thunder and lightning moved in, which it did !

I’d decided to stay here, as I wouldn’t get another climb done today, and the accommodation is quite nice !

I sit here, with the crash of thunder, bolts of lightning, and an eerie yellowy colour to the sky, as the rain and hail come down, and the sound bounces around the surrounding mountains -tremendous ,and a Happy Good night to all !

All Dressed up and Nowhere to Go !

Well, it’s been a funny old day today, on the one hand I’ve not done much rock climbing (although have watched those that have),on the other hand I’m not buried under an avalanche or worse somewhere, and I’ve got a great overnight spot, underneath a cliff, in the middle of nowhere, with a great starlit sky above me..

Anyhow, I digress..firstly I’d set the alarm for 6-30 a.m., in the expectation of it being a sunny day- and it was, so by 8a.m. I was on my way having paid the day before, for my first destination – a via Feratta at Les Orres, about an hours drive away. I had been a little concerned about snow, as my starting point was at 1,6665 mts… and as I drove along, looking up at the snow clad tops, I was even more concerned , still I kept on climbing and hoping… cheered on by the local shepherd and his flock, as he drove them down the road !

However, as soon as I reached my destination, I could already see a sign ,but it didn’t seem too ‘Official’, so I wandered up the track to assess the situation myself…the next sign did look a bit ‘Official’! , and with a barrier blocking my way, I realised that my hopes of climbing Les Orres via Feratta had been dashed, I was able to see through the trees, the mountain above, which had a large amount of snow held on the face, which presumably would be crashing down anytime soon… and if I stayed..me with it

So, time to drink in the views of a very quiet Les Orres, which looked to be a very busy alpine centre, but today was peaceful with plenty of birds singing, and nice sunshine..

So, then back through Gap, where I collected some food, and onto my next destination, drinking in the alpine views of all the high tops as I went along...although I set out for one, but ended up at another, if you know my navigation and map reading !

I eventually, after some tortuous roads, and ‘cols’ at the Col des Guerins, at 1312 mts high, the base of a mighty cliff called the Ceuse massif http://www.tourisme-tallard-barci.com/page00010072.html , which apparently was a rock climbers Mecca, attracting climbers from all over the world, there were several vehicles from Britain, along with Spain,Poland and indeed French, and from the looks of it most were staying for some time. I looked forward to joining them ! Unfortunately my hopes were immediately dashed by A Frenchman, who told me that this via Feratta was also closed – and had been for a couple of years, because of dangers with the equipment – so again I wouldn’t be climbing what I wanted. He did though suggest climbing up to the cliff, which he said is a great sight, and with it’s worldwide reputation, would be a shame not to see close at hand –which is what I did, an hours climb up through the forest, in the mid afternoon heat, saw me at the foot of the towering cliff. Firstly I traversed over to the left, to view (from below) the great cascade, with water  gushing over the top, and being blown back – just like Kinder downfall !, and a pleasant place for a shower .. then along to the right, to view the climbers part of the cliff

As I arrived no one was climbing, although there were several parties there, however, within minutes there were several groups who had started climbing, and as I had brought my binoculars, I had a great view of how they were doing, on what to me, looked a very difficult cliff to climb, directly up, few holds, and in places overhanging.. soon the cliff had several ‘specks’ climbing up the wall.. I got a sore neck looking up at all the action,and so decided it was time to return to Wally, and seek out my next destination, which I had tried, and failed to find earlier..

I won’t bore you with the details, of my trying,trying and eventually succeeding in finding the Gorges d’Agnielles,http://www.geol-alp.com/devoluy/lieux_bochaine/agnielles.html  near La Fourie.. a track that led off a side road, up and into a narrow limestone gorge, that was to be my home for the night, and, hopefully climbs tomorrow

There were lots of ‘falling rocks ‘ signs, but I located a larger area, the car park for the via Feratta, which although at the foot of a cliff, looks about as safe as anything… so with the place to myself, a nearby river as my ensuite, and the stars starting to come out twinkling in the clear skies, I’ll bid you all a Bonne Nuit, after a long,tiring day of doing…something !

The Birds are Flocking around…

As expected the rain continued to hammer down all Sunday night, and as I awoke to a sodden campsite spurred me into action.. I did briefly contemplate returning to the coast, to hear on ‘Riviera radio’ that it was equally dismal on there, and for the next couple of days.

So I headed off, on my original route, up through the Alps, on high mountain passes, with cloud and rain shielding the actual tops, although they did occasionally ‘peek out’ for me, but not often

As I approached my destination of Gap http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gap,_Hautes-Alpes , I called into a local Mcd’s to catch up on emails, again checking weather forecasts…poor everywhere I wanted to go, and as Gap seemed a reasonable location to ‘sit it out’, and where I could decided on moving which way to go, I continued, getting to a campsite Alpes Dauphine  http://www.alpesdauphine.com/ , a pretty grotty,muddy pitch awaited, although in fairness the heavy rain wasn’t helping !

It did have the advantage of a Bar/Restaurant which I used for the next 2 nights (treating myself!), whilst listening to tales from 3 cyclists, travelling to Monaco for next weekends Grand Prix, on a charity ride http://monaco1000.com//  some motor cyclists and their ‘pure’ language !

The rain continued as I stayed in and read, accompanied by the calls of the Peacock and his mate, who wandered freely throughout the campsite… him displaying his wares…her, being a woman –ignoring him !

I’m sure Gap in the sunshine is a nice place, but for now, I’ve made my plans, and hopefully with a little dry weather I’ll be able to do several climbs as I wend my way up through the Alps… 

Another lazy Sunday

I awoke to a lovely Sunday morning, some high cloud, nicely warm,and a pleasant walk to church at Entrevaux awaited – rather than having to go 8 kms on the road, I was able to take the ‘short cut’ –a cart track alongside the river, which got to Entrevaux in 2kms – a bargain !

I’d already found out the time of mass at the ‘Cathedral’ in Entrevaux (10 a.m.) and set off shortly after 9 for the pleasant walk in to the old hillside fortress in the distance…sun shining , birds singing, a beautiful day !

As anticipated I was soon in Entrevaux http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Entrevaux , entering by the ‘French gate’, over the drawbridge, and into this old town, with it’s high fortress and Citadel towering over everything.. and just as I was arriving in the town, heard the church bells ringing out- although there wasn’t a bustle of people rushing up to the church..

I think the church, which must have been a Cathedral in ancient times, as it was still called one, was dedicated to St John Baptist,again information in the town was rather sparse ,as was the congregation when I went in !  Very few already there, and not many more joining, with an older infirm Priest presiding, in what still is a beautiful church, with many fine oil paintings, and a gorgeous altar ceiling.. anyway it was still a pleasant service, I’,m managing lots more responses in French now, must be like a child learning language for the first time !

I came out of church, to find the rain had arrive whilst we were in mass,and everywhere was soaked, and prospects of more to come – I dodged the showers, found a bread shop, then a quick dart round (without paying for the museum and Citadel), and  started on my way back up the river for the campsite !

As I was going along, I heard the hoot of a train whistle, and looked down to see a steam train chattering along the line next to the river below me –that was a surprise !, but I couldn’t hang around, the threatening sky was getting blacker, as I arrived back at the campsite…for the heavens to open, and rain thundered down all day and night..

Not too bad though, I’d got there and back (dry), had food, and access to a free computer in the campsite cafe, so could catch up on emails at least, and have the obligatory Sunday afternoon snooze ( I was aching a little from my previous days exertions, but, I suppose all top athletes are like that!)

So, with the forecast set for the same for a couple of days, I’ll move on tomorrow … further North, and try to assess whether I can get some more climbing in before continuing towards home..

Bonne Nuit !

Cloud, Cuckoo Land..

I’d had a good nights sleep, even though it was quite cold, being so high up, although I had been awoken by some rain during the night, but as I looked out shortly after 7 a.m., the sun was shining, almost, but it was dry, and patches of lighter coloured sky , I may be OK for a days climbing, and the cuckoo again started it’s calling from somewhere ..

As I was having breakfast, and getting ready another camper drove up, containing a young German couple, who I ended up climbing with most of the morning, speaking in our usual halting English, and smiling !

I was to climb the Via feratta du Baus de la Frema, http://www.colmiane.com/activites_detail.asp?page_numero=48 which does have some difficult sections in it ( I’d done it before), but I thought would again increase my confidence, as I went along.. the couple had gone on ahead of me, but as I climbed up to the start of the route, they were sat down looking down into the valley at the bridge we would have to cross as we climbed…it’s good fun I assured them ! Off we all set, climbing up and  through a hole in the rock, wending our way up and down the Aiguilles', until soon coming to the Himalayan bridge, slung between the two rock pinnacles, swopping leading with the German couple, and taking several pictures for them, as they climbed the rock in front of me , reminding me of my climbing days with Susan.. soon they were up into a cave area, approaching one of the harder sections, as the rain started coming down, and then we could all hear the rumble of thunder rolling up the valley…oh dear ! Not a place to be, when lightning may be flashing around, after all, I’ll be surrounded by metal attracting it – not that I’m not attractive enough ! We all decided that it wasn’t safe enough to continue (again !)  and we hurriedly went back down the mountain, with the accompaniment of the thunder, and heavier rain – good decision !

We all exchanged email addresses, and off we went… I drove across to Puget Theniers http://www.puget-theniers.fr/ , where although the weather hadn’t improved much, it did look as it may have prospects of brightening up – the tourist office lady, wasn’t very helpful, only saying ‘Rain today,tomorrow up till Tuesday’ ! However before I went to a campsite I was going to, I decided to have a look at the via feratta car park, all the time the weather was getting better, and the hot sunshine was drying everything quickly..

I then decided that i may be able to complete the route  the via ferrata   Demoisselles du  Castagnet   http://viaferratafr.free.fr/via-ferrata.php?via=79 

I was soon walking up a hot and humid track, through a dense wet forest, with hot sunshine bathing me, and even a grass snake had come out to bask in the sunshine, slithering away as I approached, and also another Cuckoo !..and soon at the foot of the limestone Auiguilles (rock pinnacle  towers ) – yes, I would be climbing these ! Off I went up the sheer towers, which fortunately most of the time, had a slight lean on them, so I could rest now and then, although in the hot sunshine, that wasn’t too comfortable, nor had I much water left !

Soon I was faced with two ‘Monkey Bridges’, 2 wires, slung between the pinnacles, which I had to cross, with one wire to hold, and one to stand on, as I inched my way across ! I kept remembering the route description from my book which said ‘It’s all in the mind’,just do it I thought and kept going… soon being faced with a Tyrolean Traverse, as my final’ish assault ! I was soon whizzing across between these two towers, and climbing down a strenuous overhanging tower, and…relief, I had made it, a second exciting route of the day, and good idea to have done it this afternoon, before the rain arrived…

I then made my way to a campsite just outside Entrevoux, which looks a nice place to explore for mass tomorrow, Camping du Brec ,http://www.camping-dubrec.com/  simple site , but welcoming owner who also spoke English ..

Goodnight….

Before I go, just to wish my handsome nephew and Godson Joseph, and his beautiful new fiancé’ Joanna  a great evening, sorry I couldn’t be with you at your engagement party tonight – although I did have a bottle of Champers to celebrate !, - a great acting partnership, where you can both appear in your very own Hollywood film one day (Like Jotown) and I look forward to the real Big Production next May..

How Many Disasters Do You Want ???

Another nice start to the day in Tende…little did I know how the day would end  ?

Firstly I packed up, and left the Municipal camping in Tende, and drove the short distance, to La Brigue, a smaller mountain village, up another valley, and higher..very quiet, and quaint, with groups of people chatting around the market square, having presumably just come in for their bread !

I had come to climb the Via ferrata de la Chiappa http://www.labrigue.fr/index.php?id=4563, more difficult than I’d done before, but, as I was in the area, and it had the longest Tyrolean traverse of any via Feratta (120 mts)…so if I could get up to it…whew ! I found the access gate locked, barring my way across a bridge, and had to go to the tourist office and pay $5 ..cheek of it ! - and was given the access key, which didn’t look all that well used !

So, with all my gear, I set out crossing the river by a rickety bridge  before I’d even got to the climbing .. then as I got beneath the rocks I was to climb, I was rather apprehensive…it looked decidedly hard, but, I’d come here now (and paid my money!) so I got my stuff on, ready for the adventure (do I look nervous ?), then I was off, climbing straight up the rock wall, and quickly coming to an overhanging traverse, which seemed to go off around the corner, above a large cave, and on upwards… it looked far too hard for me, should I continue to the really tricky bit and hope for the best, or should I start to act my age ?…well, I hung on for dear life for a while working out my options… I’d paid good money, and only had 20 minutes climbing… and I may be able to make it… but, I decided that I was never going to make it like this, and so, reluctantly I headed back down to the ground, giving it up….phew, still alive ! It had started to rain, and thunder was rolling around, so it may have been a good move anyway (the new me ?).. do I look relieved ?

Then it was a trudge back down the hillside, across the bridge, to see them driving the sheep and goats along the main street !.. and then face the ignominy of giving the key back at the tourist office, ‘Finished already ?’ I think she said ‘ Yes,given up !’ I replied (in stuttering French, and she took the key with a knowing look, I don’t think it’s the first it’s happened to ,nor the last !

I then had a quick look around this nice village http://www.labrigue.fr/  , got some bread, and then I was off, driving to my next destination, although I wasn’t exactly sure where I would end up…

Across more mountain passes, I drove along, stopping along the way for lunch, just as 3 older cars, with ‘Monte Carlo Rally’ badges on them passed me, driving down the road… I was feeling quite mellow, all was well with the world, when ….disaster struck ! Firstly I heard a terrible scraping sound from the back of Wally, briefly stopping, as I was on an uphill twisty hairpin  road, and found a bracket hanging down , and unsure what it was , placed it where I thought it should go, and drove on, intending to get to a piece of safe ground to check it out properly..when I noticed a trail of fluid coming from the back of me,and another scraping sound, I then saw a patch of land, just off the road, which I pulled onto safely off the road, to examine what had happened..

Oh, dear, the bracket that had come loose, was holding up my fresh water tank, which had then dropped to the ground, and been ripped open on the road surface (all my precious water gone!). I could feel where the bracket had connected, which seemed to be broken, but couldn’t actually see it, as I couldn’t get underneath where it was. I was able to prop the tank back up, and I tried to re-connect the clamp, but, to no avail, and had to ring the ‘AA’, who I must say did a great job, re-assuring me that all my money was well spent, and everything could be done, Hotels, hire cars,repatriation .. all I wanted was the clamp fixing, and I would sort it in England ! The man with the big truck, eventually got to me, having had to drive from Nice, an hour away, and although he couldn’t speak English, was quite calm, and fairly quickly started some action to lift the rear of Wally up, by using his tow trucks huge lift… and was then able to get underneath.. and identified that the bracket had broken (or come apart, I’m not sure which), and then with some judicial use of a lump hammer… re-formed the bracket, and connected it back up for me…Voila !there we were, ready for being back on the road, no fresh water, but still a home for me to use… and after much handshaking, and smiles (along with a tip), we were back on the road, Merci Beaucoup !

I carried on up the road, clattering up, and down several more mountain passes, eventually briefly ending up in a village called Lantosque, where I had seen a via Ferrata along the River gorge, Les Canyons des Lantosque  http://www.laviaferrata.net/topo-via-ferrata-lantosqu.html advertised . I did manage to track it down, and had a look at the (barred) gate, down into the river gorge, and it only looked like several wire bridges across the river, although there was a wall climbed, and a Tyrolean Traverse – but it mainly seemed to be almost made into something it wasn’t… and I couldn’t find anywhere to stay, and so I carried on to my destination of La Colmiane http://www.colmiane.com/, a ski resort, and I drove straight through the closed resort, up a rough road/track, and eventually ended up at the via Feratta car park, which I was going to stay on overnight..luxury !

1750 metres up (higher than Ben Nevis), nothing occupied in sight, and a clear sky … if I had more water, then I could have stayed longer, however I did have 2 litres of water, beer,wine,orange juice and milk for some fluids, and settled in for some grub, star gazing, and a worn out sleep, listening to a cuckoo in the trees somewhere, Goodnight !