Thursday 28th April - Chips and ketchup... lovely!!

A bit of a chilly night saw me awakening at 7 AM, having breakfast of bread and jam, and making sandwiches of pate and cheese with what was provided for us the night before. We swept up and were ready to leave our little 'salon' just before 9 am.

 









It wasn't as cold today as other days, however it was chilly and misty and we set off just as the local children were getting the school bus and wishing us 'bonjour' in a very friendly way! 
What a nice friendly place for a pilgrim to start from... 

As we travelled back onto the Roman road the only other thing moving in the town were the farmers on their tractors going out to do something with their crops

We were making good progress across the undulating countryside with our road stretched out ahead of us.. and behind

We have been given a map by Micel the day before, which cut down our journey distance and gave us in the main a lovely quiet route for all day... One of the points to take note of was a large farm with a very welcoming sign outside

We were making great time through Donnement, and into Braux... All small, silent villages! 

In Braux we found some benches at the side of the football pitch and stopped for an early lunch in the midday sun shine

even managing to fill our water bottles from the toilets that were left open! 
Another few kms later we arrived in Rosnaya l'hopital, where finally we found a bar open! We were quickly inside ordering a drink of tea and coffee and a big plate of chips with tomato ketchup! 
It was the first commercial premises we found open since Monday!
 
We then pushed on through the village seeing some quite expensive looking houses behind rather large gates:

and again along quiet roads seeing various churches as we passed along although all were closed 

The weather had been great all day in fact as the afternoon wore on it was hotter and hotter and we were flagging a bit, as we started to near our goal Brienne Le Chateaux!! 

Suddenly we were there quickly into the outskirts of town and then at our hotel which had been arranged for us the day before Hotel des Voyageurs - travellers hotel!! 
I can see the Château on the hill in the centre of the town I'm not sure whether I'll get any closer to it

I've got a nice big double room; I'm not sure how much it will cost me, however I've been able to wash all my dirty clothes and hopefully they will dry before tomorrow... 

A good day's walk: 23 kms! 

I may be going even further tomorrow however time and weather will tell! 

Wednesday 27th April - Cool in Coole!!

We had a nice evening with Jean-Pierre and Monique Songy, lovely couple who wanted to know everything, and clearly could remember all the pilgrims who had passed through (even 2 from very near to my home!) 

The following morning they made us breakfast, took the obligatory photos (I made the cheese butties) and waved farewell as we headed out into a frosty morning (even though I had my shorts on) with clear blue skies above! 

We would once again be following the old Roman roads, clearly visible straight and true in front of us, stretching well into the distance - as I've said many times ...'All roads lead to Rome'!! 

We had to keep moving quickly, to get, and keep warm... But I persevered with the shorts!! 

The track / Roman road was sometimes gravel, other times clay surface... Sticking to everything!! 
10 kms later we arrived in Humbauville for an elevenses stop!! 
Again we sheltered at the side of the church, with lots of evidence of ancient graffiti!

 















Then back on the Roman road, just in time for the Hailstorm... So Poncho, shorts and gaiters!!

Then up and over the hills and Dales, with a lunch stop in the shelter of a grain silo, before finishing the day relatively early in Corbiel... 

Michel the Marie's husband was there to greet me, and show me to a simple pilgrim hostel that the village have set up, as no other facilities being available... another great welcome, tea and coffee available, and later the items provided for a welcome 3 course meal!! 

In between showers I had a look round the village... All 6 houses and a church !!

After dinner, an early night beckoned, as we've further to travel tomorrow, hopefully in reasonable weather... 

We've managed to get the high plains on the Roman road in relatively good weather - they are frequently affected by high, cold winds...
 
I'm being 'well looked after' - Thank you. 

I've now done 509 kms, so hopefully a quarter of the way!! 

Tuesday 26th April - Through the Wind Farms!!

It made a nice change to get breakfast in the Hotel, with lots of options... But even I can't eat that much, although we all made ourselves 'jam sandwiches' for lunch!! 

It was overcast as we set off on the 'alternate' trail, and as we headed up and through the wind farms at Cernon the weather started to pick up, even the occasional glimpse of sunshine!!

We followed the old Roman road, so as you'd realise it was dead straight, up and over the undulating hills!! 

I could see villages in the distance, but mainly we avoided them all day

and we made good progress, making our own best guess at the best route... Sometimes regretting it, as crossing any field left you with 'divers boots' as all the clay and stone left you with a far heavier boot than should be!! 

It had been forecast for lots of rain, even snow today ... But so far so good... Dry, windy, cool!! 

We stopped in the village of Fountaine sur Coole for our 'jam butty lunch' finding the church steps the only spot where we could sit... And not a soul stirred!! 

Continuing on and off the old Roman road, we headed for today's destination - Coole, a tiny rural hamlet, where I had booked us some pilgrim accommodation - in fact the chap from the house stopped me a couple of kms from town, introduced himself, and told me where the house was! 

So, by 330 I was in a house - a nice couples house, who let pilgrims stay as there is no other accommodation available -- marvellous - would you let 3 strangers into your home, and leave them alone to wash and relax, whilst they finish their work - and then cook dinner for them?? 
Mr & Mrs Songy did!, so Merci Beaucoup !! 

The rain did arrive, just as I got to the house... The prayers worked - keep them up!! 

Thank you one and all for lots if comments on the blog , it's nice to see people following my progress, and letting me know ! 

Monday 25th April - Cold, Wet... C'est la vie!!

The skies didn't look promising as myself Sandy and Peter had breakfast in our wayside establishment. 
We set off around 8:30 AM and at least initially I didn't have to wear any rain gear ... Not to last, unfortunately!!

As we walked along yet another canal, the rain came down and it was to stay with us for most of the day, occasionally lighter occasionally heavier, indeed even hailstones!! So we all could still long keeping ourselves cheerful! 
In one of the breaks of rain we found some convenient logs to stop for a mid-morning late breakfast:

Eventually arriving in Chalons en Champagne in early afternoon, you know it's not your day when even the cathedral is closed!

However we did find a convenient bar for some tasty crêpes, coffee and tea before we made it to the Notre Dame church next door - another beautiful and magnificent building, with wonderful stained glass windows!!

and a simple but effective Hold adore to go through, and remember everyone!! 

And on the footpath was a sign to Ilkeston in Yorkshire, a twin town reminding me of home!

We then made our way to the hotel for the evening with a convenient decathlon store next door to stock up once again on more outdoor clothing!! 

The weather forecast is not good, in fact for the area where we are walking tomorrow snow is forecast! 

This is the end of three weeks of walking during which time I have walked 475 km! 

I've had lots of wonderful messages from people at home and abroad and I'm really grateful for them - they do make a difference! 

You can email me or add comments on my blog any time you want... 

Keep up your prayers for me as I pray for you all in return. 

Sunday 24th April - Cold and colder!!

We had a leisurely start to the day as I looked out at the views from my bedroom window, it looked like it may be a nice day, however it didn't last!

Unusually breakfast was provided so it was after 9 o'clock before we set off from the Gite, for a relatively short walk of 20 km or so!!

First stop was outside the champagne house who had provided a bottle of champagne for us the night before!

Then out of the town up through the forest and along quite a pleasant path, pleasant that is until the rain started which would be with us all day!! Along with the rain was a cold biting wind

Once again we ended up working alongside a canal, for lunch we had to seek shelter in a winery that was closed for the day but had a convenient overhanging roof which protected us from the rain, as we munched our roast beef sandwiches made from last night's feast! 

Again we winded our way alongside another canal towards our destination for the day, Conde Sur Marne, which we arrive at around 3:30 PM, The only problem being the hotel didn't open until 6 PM!

 










Those intervening 2 1/2 hours were spent dodging around the village trying to get some shelter and stay out of the heavy rain! 
So you can imagine by the time 6pm came we were all frozen, and ready for the hot shower and dinner provided at the hotel where we had arranged to stay. 

A different sort of day, maybe what is to come!! 

Saturday 23rd April - Cooler with the Bubbles!!

I was up bright and early to head off after my rest day, slightly delayed in a dispute with the hotel who wanted to charge me more than I had agreed, however it was soon all sorted out and I left ready to face the day ahead. 

Firstly I went round the corner to the Boulangerie which I had visited two days before. Having got my sandwiches the staff again recognised me as a pilgrim and again gave me a bonus gift to help me on my way, very nice, thank you!! 



As I headed off along the canal out of town I saw this marker post, if you look at the distances involved Rome is closer than Santiago de Compostela! 

It was a cold overcast day and as I walked along the canal it was quite chilly, but soon I was 6 km out of the city, and once again ready to head off across the vineyards of the Champagne region

By lunchtime I was in Verzalay, and a welcome coffee stop.

 










An unusual find here - a lighthouse in the middle of the land and I have still not yet figured out what it was doing there!

Then it was up to a lovely forest track

 and over the hills and into Verzy, my nights a destination where I met up with Sandra and Peter my Australian pilgrim friends, and we all shared a Gite together, with a typical English Sunday roast beef dinner washed down with copious quantities of champagne - delightful.

A pleasant return to my pilgrims walk !! 

Friday 22nd April - Relaxing in Reims

I had a leisurely start to the day: sleeping in (and frightening the chambermaid...) however I couldn't rest too long, and wandered across to the Abbey church of St Remi

Another interesting old church, which contains the remains of St Remi. 
Again, the stained glass was both colourful and somber... 

I wandered back. Across Reims, passing the Notre Dame cathedral,

 


















And some interesting statues along the way.

Lunch on the square, and an afternoon of catching up, before meeting up with the Australians Sandy and Peter for evening drinks and food... 

I may see them tomorrow.. 

In any event, time to get going again!! 

Night night.