Another 5am wake up... Or was it earlier?? I was out of the parish hostel before 6 am into the silent streets of San Querico... There's only pilgrims around at that time.
As I climbed out of the town into the surrounding vineyards, the lazy sun was creeping its way up into the misty sky, views I've often seen in pictures!!
although it was magical I couldn't stop... Long way to go!!
Just after 7am I walked into the spa village of Bagno Vignoni, where a thermal pool bubbles up outside in the centre... The warm water was very inviting... but I couldn't stop, it was very hot even before 8 am!!
I caught up with a group of 7 Italians, and 2 Spanish pilgrims, and we spent the morning meeting at water fountains, cooling down and sharing food as we all marched across the scorching land!! Up and down several hill ranges...
At one point I passed a house, in the middle of nowhere!!, with an old chair outside, and a big barrel of cold water for pilgrims to drink... Great, the owner was a woman from California, now living in Italy, who loves to chat with the pilgrims, even pointing out some pear trees where we could help ourselves... I was overwhelmed, and grateful!! I carried on, by now there was just me and the Spanish, in the midday sun, when we came upon an option for our destination (Radiffocani) 8 kms one way, or 13 kms the other via an Abbey... Which way to go?? (we'd already done over 20 kms..) the 8kms route easily won, and we carried on up the road... Some time later a man stopped his car and offered the 3 of us a lift... He lived in Radiffocani, and pointed to it on the hilltop above!! Gratefully we accepted his offer, and were dropped on the outskirts of the village, we'd been saved a tortuous climb in the heat!!
We celebrated with beer and pasta, and then checked into the hostel right next to the church.. Sadly the priest was recuperating from an operation, so couldn't do mass, which is normally every evening for pilgrims... Shame!!
I had a walk round the village and later had a nice communal meal in the hostel, before we all had an early night... It's another long day tomorrow!!
As the sun rose on a new Europe (Britain having voted to leave... Commonly known as 'Brexit', and the source of much questioning of me by other nationalities)
I was out very early, again, along with everyone else trying to beat the heat of the day... as I walked across the most covered fields down below I could see in the far distance a hot air balloon rising into the sky... the birds were singing... All was peace (except in Britain!!)
I was soon into the old town of Buonconvento, where I got some coffee and food....
Even finding a road sign 'Roma 201' - sadly that was for cars.... And I still have a bit more than that to walk into Rome! Then it was back out of town and onto the gravel roads again, getting hotter by the minute, as all the stones reflects the high sun!
I just kept my head down, and walked, filling up with water wherever I could... And just about managing to stay hydrated!! Late morning I hit into Torrenieri, where I had a delicious tuna salad... Washed down with 3 bananas, and lots of water!! Back to the last leg, a 10 kms climb up to San Querico:
tantalisingly up on the top of the hill (again) up a long hot gravel road... I managed to get there by about 230 pm, for a big cold beer!!
It was a festival weekend, so flags from the four districts of the town were flying, even in the church - the festivities were for Saturday, when I won't be here, shame!!
Everyone was in bed early as tomorrow is one of the hardest and longest (33kms) stages left to do, and the temperatures are expected around 35C... That's hot!! - although it seemed that hot in bed!!
I was up really early, before 6 along with everyone else, trying to beat the heat of the day... And failing!! Anyway, before 640 am I was walking out through the Roman gate and out of Sienna
Initially along Tarmac roads, then gravel tracks across country with fortunately well placed water fountains every so often, so was able to keep up my water balance!! After a couple of hours, I stopped at the last bar of the day... Coffee and brioche, and headed out again into the red hot countryside, very little shade to be gotten, the sun high in the sky and beating down on all the pilgrims mercilessly!!
More people had joined in Sienna, so although not busy, was interesting to see pilgrims strung out in front and behind, 'enjoying' their first day on the pilgrim road, a real baptism of fire!! One village had built a little Sosta, for pilgrims to rest and refresh...
Which I did just after I'd sang Happy Birthday to my favourite (and only!) Grand daughter - Chloe!!, whilst under the shade of a tree!! I kept soothing on through the midday sun, along the burning track
coming across a lovely seat at the side of the road.... It felt a little like me!!
Anyway, I managed to cajole another thirsty first day pilgrim into our rest stop of the day Ponte D'arbia, and a big welcoming hostel... Where it's still hot inside, and likely to remain so overnight ... With the next few days remaining in the mid 30's... I'll just have to get used to it (and some last few big days ahead!!) I'll have to get up even earlier!!
We all had a leisurely start today, with a little breakfast in the hostel before I left just before 8 am.. There won't be many occasions you can get the piazza so empty
as I left through a differing town gate, and dropped across the car parks I saw this large sculpture, representing ancient medallions worn by pilgrims on their way home from Rome, signifying completion of their pilgrimage
I was soon crusading the gravel roads again, and looking back I could see the hilltop fort behind me
And also as I travelled there were again fortified houses all around:
Deer were crashing out of the undergrowth as I walked! By 10 am it was already quite hot as I came upon a rest 'Sosta' -,La Villa, where a man had set up his own little pilgrims rest and relaxation point, where I got some fruit given to me, and even bought a cap!!
I then headed off through the forests towards Sienna, still 15 kms distant... In the hot day!! I came across a tunnel to an underground canal, built in the 1800's
and eventually by early afternoon I'd left the forest, and could see my goal in the distance, Sienna arriving through one of the impressive town gates and into the city itself!!
I had joined up with Angelo and Freda on the road, and we made our way to another provided hostel, near to the Roman gate... And after a shower I had a look around the city, teeming with tourists, visiting the famous Campo, the Duomo (cathedral) with its open Holy Door had a big pot of ice cream (as you'd expect!!) then sheltering in the hostel from the afternoon heat 30C+, and expected to be hotter again tomorrow!!
I'll have to get up earlier!!
I had a long distance to travel today, 30kms +, and to beat the heat I set off well before 7 am!! I left my 'pilgrims village', and before I'd even travelled 200 metres, a deer went crashing across my path, and away into the undergrowth!! - a great start to the day! I soon turned off the road, and was walking along dirt roads, tracks which were to continue like this almost all day - the guide description said this one was one of the most beautiful days - it lived up to it!
Distant castellated houses, and rivers to ford
As I travelled along the scenery kept changing, sometimes the red Tuscan earth, sometimes pale clay, constant differences, looking out across the wheat fields!!
By 10 am I was into the small village of Quartia for a nice pot of tea, and giant donut!!
A quick visit to the nice church there:
before continuing out across the scorched landscape, on the seemingly never ending roads... again passing isolated majestic houses!!
By 1 pm I was passing through a larger village of Strove, where I was able to fill up with water, had a snack and continued on the hot day, through woods and forests, at the side of the Val d'elsa... All so peaceful hardly anyone about, just me, the birds, and rustling lizards in the undergrowth dashing away as I approached!!
By 230pm I was into Abbadia Isola, another famous resting spot for Archbishop Sigeric, and lots of pilgrims since.
I originally intended to stop here, but had been persuaded to continue to my hill top fort destination of Monteriggioni, which as I set off from the abbey could see in the distance up above me...
It was a bit of a slog to get there, it always is when you can see the end, but it took another hour and a half, before I entered the gate to the hilltop fort:
and into the piazza of the village, finding my accommodation - the hostel next to the church, with green shutters, what a great place to stay, and for only 20€!!
I was soon showered, washed all my clothes, and was out on the square watching all the tour groups come and go, whilst waiting for the others to arrive... Peaceful and relaxed !
The others did arrive later, Angelo and Freda, as well as a cyclist from Milan... We shared a hot room together that night... After my supper of Wild Boar stew, with grilled polenta - and very good it was too!! I settled to sleep at the end of the longest day inside my own castle!! A knight to remember!
