A Blackout,or Blowout !

A wet and windy morning, with very black skies, which frequently sent hail showers tumbling down,had me doing the sensible thing…lying in bed, and reading !

However, eventually shortly after midday the rain stopped, and it looked potentially ‘nice’, so I got the bike out, and with my packed lunch, headed for the German Military Cemetery at La Camba http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Cambe_German_war_cemetery, it was about 7 miles away, and having seen it’s location, I decided I should go to see one of ‘theirs’ ! This is the largest German military cemetery, now containing over 22,000 bodies, in one place !

I battled the strong headwinds, as I rode inland,and eventually made it there, still dry, although slightly perspiring !It was laid out quite differently to any cemetery I had seen before, no upright stones, apart from lots of groupings of 5 crosses together, a common feature of all German military cemetery’s, and a central mound containing many bodies, unidentified,and many not even in one piece ! I was gladdened to see many school parties visiting, this forlorn piece of Normandy, indeed many British were also visiting ,but because of the lack of headstones, and small plaques, it was difficult to appreciate 22,000 + graves, the biggest cemetery I had ever been to.

Occasionally on the windswept fields some flowers had been placed over a gravestone. I said some prayers, and left the area saddened ,as always by such a waste of young,and not so young lives

Then it was back to the coast, through the Normandy countryside, viewing the old round farmhouses, and the local church at La Camba,with it’s  beautiful stained glass windows,and peacefulness, for some more windswept adventures- as I had looked along the sea front, I could see in the distance old German defensive positions,some of which were already being re-taken by the sea, and I set off for a look  ,as you do !

As I sheltered from a rain shower, inside the gun position, I could see the Normandy fishermen,at work on the Oyster beds, in the bay – I counted at least 20 tractors, busily doing their work before the next tide came in, a real hive of industry for the famous Normandy Oyster !http://wikitravel.org/en/Normandy 

I was still busily rooting through the old structures, sheltering from the rain, and being nosy…when ‘disaster ‘struck ! I had a puncture,and flat tyre, so had to walk back about a mile to repair the several holes, eventually resorting to a new inner tube to fix it, and a soaking into the bargain !

But the sun had again come out, so it was another BBQ, before packing up and ready to move on again tomorrow…Bonne Nuit ! 

A Day Meandering and Musing

It was a cold,wet Tuesday morning, as I packed up and set off from Merville, as yesterdays sunshine had all but disappeared. As I travelled back towards Caen, the driving rain, and wild wind deterred me from stopping anywhere, apart from a convenient McDonalds, where I could make contact.

I continued making my way along the Normandy coast, for Grandcamp Maisy,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grandcamp-Maisy it always make me imagine it’s an American name, although French ! I did have a look around the French countryside, whilst waiting for the campsite lunch hour (of 2 1/2 hours), and then I was able to get on to Camping Joncal,http://www.campingdujoncal.com/  immediately next to the harbour, and adjoining the beach and sea, although because of the wind I couldn’t stay on one of the sea side pitches which were available, and settled for one in the middle of the site, with all round protection.

By this time, the middle of the afternoon, the sun had come out again, and although there was still a fierce wind blowing I set off riding for Pont D’Hoc http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pointe_du_Hoc famous and celebrated American war memorial – about 4 miles away. Passing a rather grand and imposing silver coloured lady - a statue for World Peace http://peace.statue.free.fr/html/statue_gb.htm  - as I rode along

I had previously been in the exhibition area, and so reversed my route along the coast, and then going across some tracks to the cliff edge, where I could get some good views of the actual cliffs that were climbed by the American ranger force on D Day ,and also answering a question I had been pondering recently….what does happen to all those shells from shellfish eaten in such vast quantities…???- they throw them back down the cliffs !

So, as I traversed back along the top of the cliffs, with occasional forays down onto the beach, I saw on the blue dappled sea an MSC Cruise liner, wondering whether they knew what they were travelling along ,framed between 2 beach obstacles placed to deter the Allies from landing.

The sun was still shining as I got back to the campsite, so…the first BBQ of my trip (although not the first of the year), and in the evening sunshine had a real feast of a meal…just in time, as the heavens opened as I had just finished cooking …that was closeand as I pondered whether this would be the closest I would come to a cruise ship….another Bonne Nuit !

Who Mentioned the War….!

I awoke to a fresh,clear sky, although the wind was still blowing strong, although not as strong as earlier days. I had been contemplating moving on today, however with the prospect of a nice day I had decided to stay for another day.

After a leisurely breakfast (what else!) I rode to nearby Merville as I had seen signs for the ‘Merville Battery’, and had decided to have a look. http://www.batterie-merville.com/the-merville-battery?lang=en Everything seemed well preserved, with a DC4 aeroplane in amongst the exhibits, and so, much against my normal policy I paid to go in and have a look around.

This was one of  series of gun batteries forming the so called ‘Atlantic Front’, to prevent the Allies from re-taking Europe in the Second World War – not very successful as history shows, the area had its 4 gun emplacements preserved, and the story of how the 9 Parachute regiment had attacked on the 6th June 1944, preventing it shelling the nearby D Day landing beaches.  The entire site was well laid out with stories of the differing regiments parts, including Germans, and what happened,before and after, including a very noisy and realistic exhibit in one of the bunkers, showing how it felt to be in the middle of it ! I spent a very pleasant several hours there , before riding back to Merville –Franceville and my ‘Sunday Lunch’ of Moules Marinere and frites, with Crepe to follow,all washed down with some nice cool Vin Blanc !

Then fresh bread for tea, and back to Wally to pack the bikes, ready to depart tomorrow.

The weather had been glorious all day – in the sun, however in the shade it was still bitterly cold, although I did manage to see the sun go down , with a ‘Brittany Ferry’ making it’s way across to EnglandBonne Nuit  

Although it being a starry sky…I did manage a stroll on the beach watching the sky,looking at the stars, and seeing some ‘shooting stars’….before, once again I bid you Bonne Nuit !

Sun, Sea and Roaring Winds…

I awoke to clear, blue skies,although the wind was still roaring along, blowing any clouds quickly across the sky

I had decided to ride to Cabourg http://www.cabourg.net/spip.php?article14 ,about 6 kms away, to find the church for 11 a.m. Mass, so having showered and cleaned up…I set off hoping to find the church easily….which is exactly what happened, the bells ringing helped ! I’m still not sure what the church was called, possibly Notre Dame des Fleurs (Our Lady of the Flowers)http://www.cabourg.net/spip.php?article1296 . The missalet handed out had all the readings,and Hymns (in French), but I was easily able to join in, along with the large congregation, in this beautiful old church, with stained glass windows

Then afterwards I wandered into the town of Cabourg, unfortunately the Tourist Information was closed, so I wasn’t really able to find much more out, but wandered through the squares, where there was a market in full flow, busy side streets, and a quite ‘posh’ residential area, it seemed I had stumbled into a rather exclusive area, with large mansions fronting onto the sea,the sunshine helped, although the wind was still blowing fiercely, I suspect it always did around here as lots of the shops had windscreens outside !

Out onto the sea front, I could see lots of Kite surfers, Sand yachts, and even a pony and trap racing along the wide flat sands

I’d eventually had enough sand blasting, so got some fresh bread, and rode back to my camp site, for a late lunch, and  snooze, in the hot afternoon sunshine

In the early evening I wandered into the nearby village, for an evening meal..no such luck, although the Restaurants had lights on…no one was in, should have had lunch out, ah well….another walk up and down the beach, collecting some of the shells lying in abundance, and back to Wally, at least it stayed dry all day ! Goodnight all…

Wild and Windy

I awoke to a pretty miserable morning, cold, grey skies, with occasional downpours- I was glad I had decided to leave Lisieux,anyway, so the day wouldn’t be wasted !

I traversed across the wet French countryside,happily taking in the views, of small Normandy villages, well washed with the April rains !

I headed back to the coast, as my intention is to travel along the coast, going as far South as I have time…then turning back !

My first port of call was a Hypermarket near Caen,where firstly I found a McDonalds, for free Wi-Fi, and then a large supermarket, where I could get fresh food, wine and…everything I’d forgotten, and since discovered     ( thought I was travelling light!)

Then it was on to my next stop, Le Point du Jour,http://www.camping-lepointdujour.com/ at Merville-Franceville-Plage, a site immediately next to a breezy,wild,but sandy beach and sea.

The weather hadn’t improved much, as it was still raining,and very windy, but I managed to get a pitch in a ‘wind free Oasis’, hollowed out of the dunes, and nicely sheltered, so although I could hear the roar of the wind,and rain, I couldn’t feel it! So a pleasant lunch of fresh bread,cheese,pate’,washed down with some nice ‘Fleurie’ wine…

Towards the evening the rain stopped, and it was at least dry, so I wandered along the beach ,into the nearby village of Merville http://www.mairie-mervillefranceville.fr/ , looking for the church, which I found – inundated with cars – mass had started 20 minutes before, and none tomorrow !

Ah well, a trip to Cabourg beckons !

Then it was back along the windy beach to Wally, and some hot food…and a sleep with the roar of the wind/sea to accompany me…Oh, and a Happy Birthday OB,bet you thought I’d forgot!

Live Dangerously….What Me ???

As if I ever would, well,  what did you expect !I had decided that as it was Friday the 13th….the prudent thing to do was…. nothing !

which was where I found this sign….as the campsite is next to the Rive La Touqes,which frequently flooded…there was an evacuation plan……don’t panic !

So, on a sunny Friday morning, I decided that I had been far too busy lately, and sat in the sunshine, having breakfast, listening to the birds singing,getting sunburnt,reading  and drinking my coffee …oh, and taking pictures of my Grandson’s school bag – there should be several more as time goes on,won’t tell you the next time, prizes of ? for next spot  !

That was the pattern for the day, although later in the afternoon, as it had become cooler and cloudier I did take a walk along the river, trying to spot any jumping fish (only one ), and circulating the blood in my body..phew it’s gone really chilly

I plan to move tomorrow, so everything's now packed, early night, and travelling again tomorrow, although where I’ll end up…good question ?

Early Birds and All That…

I know I like the sunsets, but, for a change, this morning I saw the sun RISE…as I was looking forward from the ship, and into France, I saw the sun rising over the harbour at Le Havre… I can’t promise many more sunrises, but no doubt there’ll be lots of sunsets !

The ships crew were busy at the front, readying the ropes to tie up,as we backed into the harbour , and soon everyone was called to their vehicles, as we all roared out of the ship, across the harbour front, and on to the already busy roads, and another habit broken….I went on the toll road, as the easiest way to get out and across the River Seine, without a big detour, although it cost me (a poor pensioner ) 8 Euros, across the Pont de Normandy, and magnificent bridge up,into the skies,  although I was soon back on my favoured ‘D’ roads (free), and towards my first destination…Liseaux

I had heard a lot about St Therese of Lisieux, the ‘little flower’ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lisieux , and as it was only around 50 miles away, had decided it would be my first destination.

After only one wrong turning I arrived, bright and early in Lisieux, found the Municipal Campsite, basic but OK, arriving there before 10 a.m., pitched and ready for the self guided tour of the town,about 2 kms distant, and although cool and slightly cloudy

I soon found my way into the Jardin de L’eveche’, a spectacular memorial gardens, with a lovely fountain,playing it’s sparkling water in the morning sunshine, then around the corner to St Peter’s Cathedral, the family church of St Theresa’s family, after they had moved to Lisieux . It’s a very old, 12 C church , http://www.therese-de-lisieux.catholique.fr/Saint-Peter-s-Cathedral.html , with a useful leaflet to guide me around the church, and chapels surrounding it  , including the picture, of the suffering Jesus,

  that is said to Have inspired St Theresa to realise her vocation – at the age of 13 !, and the Lady Chapel, where the Archbishop involved in the trial of St Joan of Arc is buried …

From there I carried on across the busy town, to be greeted by the sight of the Basilica, up on top of the hill erected in the 20 C, in honour of St Theresa – although the outside view is impressive, nothing prepares you for the splendour of the mosaics on every wall and ceiling inside, truly spectacular, and fresh   Although  the main casket with St Theresa’s relics in it, are ‘on tour’ around the World, her right arm is there, as is a casket containing her parents remains,in the Crypt, another spectacularly decorated area… after some time there, I visited the Stations of the Cross up the hill at the back…then back to the campsite, for a ……sunbathe !!!, although I was nearly nodding off in the evening sunshine, as I was worn out with the travelling, lack of sleep, and busy, but worthwhile day….so now, a shower, clean clothes, and early night….Bonne Nuit !!