Monday 30th May - A Big Weight Off My Back!!

We had a lazy start in Ribbio, having listened to the rain thundering down most of the day, but we only had 16 kms to walk, and couldn't get in to our destination before 3 pm, so there was no rush! 

I had gathered together my used guide book, cold weather gear (almost, but not all!), sleeping bag, spare woolly socks, and anything I thought I would no longer need (Italy is hot... Right?) and went round to the post office to send it all back home. It was 2.5 kgs of weight that would no longer be on my back... wonderful, although I'm not sure I felt any difference when I lifted my rucksack later!! 

Myself and Juliano set off around 9 am, soon finding a bar for a coffee and croissant for breakfast... Then wandering out across the rain sodden fields and lanes... Not too muddy, in fact the softened earth felt like a carpet under my feet!! 

Just before 11 am as I entered Nicorvo, I saw this welcoming sign on the road:

The village is known to welcome pilgrims, and so it did (unfortunately no refreshments anywhere though!) I went into the pilgrim chapel opposite the locked main church where there was an old plaque dedicated to St James, patron of pilgrims! 

Off we continued along to the next village in hot sunshine, although the skies were darkening all the time, thunder forecast for later! 
Entering the little hamlet of Madonna del Campo 

I was again amazed at how empty these places were, and yet the beautiful churches and chapels, with no doubt expensive artwork within remained open - as they all should!! 

We continued into Mortara, where our attempts to beat the rain failed, and we had to settle in a bar eating and drinking whilst a fierce thunderstorm with large hailstones roared overhead!! 

Then onto our destination of the old Abbey of St Albino, on the outskirts of the town, again an old pilgrim refuge / hospital... Where I was to stay in the hall next to the tiny chapel, with original frescoes on the wall:

The hospitalera Franca made us very welcome, cooking dinner for all later. 

The parish priest called later to stamp our credentials, and spoke very enthusiastically to all, although he couldn't speak English... But I understood his welcome! 

I even met my first bike pilgrim - Franco, who arrived around 6 soaked from the rain... 

We settled for the night in the peaceful place (although the nearby Autostrada is noisy!!)