Up & In the Ice Towers

I was excited, as again up early at 6-30 a.m., for an early breakfast next door at the Golden Saloon, filling up for the big day – ice climbing on the Root Glacier http://www.steliasguides.com/alaskaday_2learnice.htm  but firstly I wanted to go to the creek for some water, and in my haste to take a picture from the back of the ‘Hotel’ dropped my camera, which bounced down the steps –it’s had a tough time the camera, and although I didn’t realise it then, it’s next picture was to be it’s last !

I wandered round to the creek, then saw the McArthy museum and took a picture with my camera , which then ground to a halt ! –it had finally died,   battered,broken and well used..from now on I’ll have to copy photos until I can get a new camera, and in this part of the world that may be a while ! (and it was)

Back into the village we were met by Scott our guide and coach for the days climbing – he looked a typical ‘mountain man’, very tall,lean,with a long ginger beard and very friendly – he took us in the battered van, firstly to Kennecott office where we were kitted out with plastic climbing iceboots,crampons,harness, and helmet, all of which we had to carry in addition to our already full day sacs, up along a trail through the forest to the Glacier, 2 miles distant…a tough start !

Eventually we emerged from the forest, to see the Root glacier http://www.terragalleria.com/parks/np.wrangell-stelias.all.html below us, and soon we were changing out of our own boots, and putting on our big climbing boots and crampons, the real fun was just about to start, and the prospects of a clear dry day stretched out in front of us- the others hadn’t worn crampons before, although I had and the instructions about ‘walking like a cowboy’ were initially lost on them, but they soon got the hand of walking on 12 points of steel sinking into ice, up and down ice hills and valleys

The glacier stretched out in front of us, and we were shown a Moullon – a great hole in the ice, with water cascading down into it, and a seemingly bottomless pit in the glacier – we would be able to climb down into (and out of) it later ,if we wanted ! and we continued traversing across the ice filed, with Scott looking after us, and giving lots of useful and interesting information as we went, eventually reaching the great cirque of an ice bowl, with cliffs all around it, where we were to be based, and learn to ice climb, but first – lunch, and a hot drink of apple cider tea (thanks Scott).  Scott then went up to the top of the cliffs, about 50 mts above us, whilst we wandered around trying to keep warm – it soon got chilly on the ice doing nothing, even though I had brought my down jacket with me..Scott towered above us, whilst he set up the anchors, and gear, ready to protect our climbing attempts.. soon he was back down, giving us some good instruction about ice climbing, using the ‘X’ technique ..and what to do when/if we get to the top ! So, all that was needed now was someone to go first ? –Jotown ,of course ! I was soon making tentative progress up the cliff, whacking the axes in above me, and kicking my feet into the ice below for grip, as I got higher the adrenaline started flowing, as i looked to the floor some distance below, and only balanced on several points of steel stuck in ice….o’errr ! I was shattered about 6 feet below the top, and thought I wouldn’t be able to get over the overhanging ice above, Scott refused to let me down, saying I had done so well, he wouldn’t let me come down without ‘topping out’, so eventually I managed to summon up enough strength in my arms to get up and over the top..great, now please let me down, my arms are killing me ! I was lowered down the cliff, and then watched the others also attempting the climb, with varying degrees of success,although everyone did get some distance up, surprising themselves. I had another two climbs, by which time i had learnt a little technique, and found the climb easier, although still hard, getting up and over the top on both occasions and becoming more confident, although very tiring, especially in my arms, which I described as feeling like I had ‘Popeye’ arms ! ..and the sun was coming out, blue skies above and hot,hot,hot ! we were able to drink the water running on  the Glacier, gorgeous taste, and so,so cool !

Then we’d all had enough on the cliffs, time to return to the Moullon. The sun was hot as we walked back over the glacier, towards what we’d seen earlier in the day, the views opening up all the time, with all the glacial water to drink

Soon we were back above the ‘thundering hole of death’ ready for our journey into the bowels of the glacier, the ice melt had increased, so water was pouring over the lip of the hole, and thundering down below. Scott set up all the equipment to safeguard us, with additional instructions of what to do – effectively he’d lower us as far as we wanted, and we then had to climb back up ! cautioning us that the ice was a lot harder inside the glacier(and it was) and sometimes great ‘dinner plates’ of ice would crash down on us from the axes (they did) I didn’t go first this time, allowing one of the others to go, before my turn soon came, and I was lowered into the hole. The sound of water crashing into the depths below was thunderous, I could hardly hear myself think ! On my first attempt I didn’t go too far, around 30/40 ft, and Scott said it was too easy, and to go back down, which I did ! As I dangled on the rope before my climb up, I looked far below to see the pool of water at the bottom, and clear blue columns of ice being carved out by the running water, I then managed to get back up and out..for a rest, whilst others had a go. When they had finished I volunteered for a final attempt, which I almost regretted…I was lowered a considerable way, dangled round surveying al around me in the depth of the glacier,but, as I started to climb out, the ice axes pulled out with great crashes of hard ice,my feet slipped,and I was dropped onto the dangling rope…Ooops ! I then had a tortuous time climbing up the ice columns, a few feet at a time, hoping to get out before my strength ran out completely !-although I did eventually make it and collapsed onto the ice…my day done !

We had all climbed as much as we wanted to (or could), and so we traversed the glacier again, back to our boots, and along the trail through the forest to Kennecott, http://www.nps.gov/wrst/historyculture/kennecott.htm  in hot evening sunshine, marvelling at the capability of the engineers from 100 years ago building all this in the middle of nowhere, and back to McArthy along the bumpy road…and a hot shower, cold beer..

A great day, thanks Scott, you were a real ‘Good Guide’

Then it was time for bed and snores !